Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

On Choosing a Crag (Part 1)

Who says you can only have fun while you're on the rocks? Make the "getting there" part fun too!

Everyone knows that not all crags are created equal – but the characteristics that make a climbing area perfect depend on what your climbing party is looking for. Who cares about the approach, you might say – don’t you just go where the climbing is good?!? It seems like a no-brainer for most folks…however since Cragbaby came along, we’ve realized that there is more to a great day than just great climbing. Here’s a list of the factors we consider when we are gearing up for a day out on the rocks.

Distance – Remember that short little legs tire out quickly!  If your little ones are hiking in under their own power, make sure you choose distances that are short enough to remain enjoyable.  Take breaks when you need to (its not the time to break any land speed records!) and don’t forget to bring plenty of snacks and water for along the way!  If the kiddos are getting to the crag via YOU (ie front carrier or backpack), the question is merely how far you want to hike with the added weight of a growing boy or girl.  However contrary to the majority of sedentary America, climbers are used to hiking in lots of heavy gear already, so for us distance is not really a factor as much as…

Long hikes can come in handy around naptime!

Terrain – Again, if your child is young enough to be in a carrier, then the “do-ability” of an approach is based on you – make sure you are comfortable with the amount of scrambling and hiking involved.  Research beforehand on whether or not there are any steeper fifth class sections on the hike that might require the use of a fixed line or ladder, or other hazards such as water crossings or scree slopes, and then decide if you can maneuver through those sections safely.  (You might have to get creative – we discovered that we can still do ladders safely by gearing up beforehand and anchoring in on the rungs)

Honeymooner's Ladders at Endless Wall, New River Gorge

Cliff Base – Remember once you get there you are staying there…probably all day.  Make sure that the base of the routes you want to climb provide ample room for all of your gear (which you will have 3 times more of than your non-kid partners!)  If you’ve got a baby who isn’t mobile yet, you’ll need to have enough flat, level ground to spread out a blanket for naps and diaper changes.  For toddlers and older children, you’ll need an even bigger area to make exploration safe.  Steer clear of steep slopes and drop-offs, poison ivy and thorns, as well as rocky areas. (Although kid-sized boulders are great entertainment for older kids to practice what the grown-ups are doing, they can be difficult to maneuver around for early walkers.)


Be prepared for conditions to change throughout the day...

Crowd Control – “Party Crags” with large groups of (often loud) climbers make it hard for little tykes to get some midday shut-eye, which in turn makes it a lot harder on everyone involved.  Look for crags that get less traffic or have plenty of routes to accomodate lots of folks.

Also don’t forget that usually what (and who) hikes down must hike up, and vice versa.  Some approaches are a lot more difficult on the way out, so be sure to factor that in when your planning your day (it might not be wise to try and squeeze in one more climb if you’re wanting to make it out by dark).

But probably the most important thing to remember is that all of these factors are relative to your own ability/comfort level, as well as the temperament and age of your child.  Be aware of both you and your child’s limits, and don’t do anything stupid that lands you both in an unsafe situation.

***You might be wondering why this post is labelled as “Part 1.”  That’s because the next post will continue along this theme with recommendations on specific crags, so click here to check out “On Choosing a Crag (Part 2)***


I'll show ya my favorite crags next time guys!






2 Responses to “On Choosing a Crag (Part 1)”

  1. Climbing mom @cragmama has some great advice on choosing a crag when you have little ones tagging along:


  2. it looks like he enjoys this as good as you and Dad! I’d like to hear the stories he tells someday!


Leave a Comment Life is in the conversation.


Your email will not be published.

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN