Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

Over the River and Through the Woods…to Grandmother’s Boulders We Go!

North Carolina.
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Slowly but surely I’ve been whittling away at my 2011 Hit List, and finally dragging my crash pad up to the Grandmother Boulders in Boone brings me one step closer to crossing off #7 from my list, which was about exploring new climbing areas.  These quality boulders are sitting around 5000 feet or so, making for a welcome summer respite for NC climbers drowning in humidity at lower elevations across the state.  There’s not guidebook of course, because thats the way NC bouldering rolls, so we were delighted that our friend Matt was up for showing us around.  The temps were in the 70’s, and it hadn’t rained in almost a week, making for refreshingly crisp conditions in the NC highlands!

Approaching committment time on Hooked on Chronic (V3)

 

Best friends 🙂

We warmed up on a couple of V1’s at the Bookshelf Boulder and a really nice V2 on the neighboring Hard Hat Boulder.  Next we made our way to the top of the hill to the Ebonics Boulder.  I was psyched to flash Hooked on Chronic (V3) – a tall, intimidating problem with a wildly exposed and committing topout.  On our way back down we made a quick stop at the Dentist Boulder to hop on Pulling Teeth (V4).  We all got shutdown on the low start, which we all agreed seemed pretty stout for V4.  The higher start goes at V2 however, and was a fun romp up a steep broken flake system to a left-traversing topout.  Next stop was the Mighty Mouse Area, where we all sent Big Easy (V2) – a V2 boulder problem ending with 20 feet of 5.6 climbing.  It took me several tries to send the aptly named Crack (V3), until I found a nice hand jam to help me exit the crack to the higher flakes. 

Matt making easy work of Big Easy (V2)

After a bit of convincing, we got Matt to take us to Decepticon (V3), a short, unassuming slab filled with balancey, undercling fun that your average steep-lovin’ boulderer wants no part of.  A friend of mine a while back had recommended it to Steve and I, and we were most definitely not disapointed!  It took me a few tries to get my feet right on the start, but after that I sent without much trouble – Steve did the V2 version that utilizes the arete, which also looked really fun.  After Decepticon, I hopped on what I think was Decepticon 2000 (V3?).  It started on the left side of the boulder and traversed along the sloping lip with smeary feet.  I actually thought it felt a little harder than Decepticon, but that may have been just because it was a much longer problem.

Mr. Jesse taught C how to make heiroglyphics

We ended our day soaking up the beautiful panoramic views at Valley of the Kings, which looks out over Grandmother Lake, Ship Rock, and Grandfather Mountain.  My favorite problem of the day was Haptos (V4), which I surprised myself by sending on my first go.  A classic and aesthetic line, it followed up a left-trending seam with a few broken sections that provided good fingerlocks.  We also did the Unknown (V3) on the arete left of Haptos before finishing up around the corner on Birds Nest (V2).

Steve's hallmark "concentrating face."

Even though the Grandmother Boulders were a little farther than what we normally drive for a day trip, the approaches were short and we didn’t start packing up til around 7 at night, which allowed us to still get in a full day’s worth of climbing (and then some!).  Since camera antics are always easier when ropes aren’t involved, we did end up with a few decent shots.  You can see the photo gallery by clicking here.  I would definitely be up for going there again, and another time it would be both fun and efficient to camp and get in another day somewhere else too, such as The Dump or Ship Rock.

Enjoying the view at Valley of the Kings

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Latest Cragmama Buzz

In the News.
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Cragmama’s been recieving a lot of cyber-buzz around the web these days, enough so that I felt like it was important to keep track of all Cragmama “press” in one spot so it can be referred to as a resource.  Hence, the birth of the “Media” page at the top of the site – feel free to check it out from time to time if you want the latest in Cragmama news outside of this site!

I just recently have had the opportunity to start writing for PembaServes, a consulting company that represents various brands in the Outdoor Industry.  My first piece was for their ongoing blog series, “Opportunities,” where I was asked to write about getting kids outdoors, in light of all of the scary couch potato statistics our society is becoming more and more well-known for.  If you are interested in the article, click here. 

I was also honored to be on the list of “Favorite ‘New’ Climbing Websites,” put out by Splitterchoss.com, a climbing website that has articles on anything climbing-related that you could possibly imagine – gear reviews, regional beta, videos/photos, injuries and training advice…all presented with a witty sense of humor and fun. 

But I saved my most exciting piece of news for last…I’m gonna be a guidebook author(ess)!  A few weeks ago I was contacted by Earthbound Sports Publishing with the offer to put together a guide detailing all of the climbing to be had in the Piedmont Region of North Carolina – for you locals, that would be Moore’s Wall, Pilot Mountain, Crowder’s Mountain, and Stone Mountain.  Needless to say I have a lot of work ahead of me before the book is released hopefully by the end of 2012.  More details on that later!

Oh and by the way, in the coming weeks you’ll be able to get Cragmama stickers!  I’ll let you know when they become available for anyone that wants some – I’m also creating a special Photo Gallery for anyone that sends in a picture of their strategically placed Cragmama sticker, as an added incentive to spread the word about getting families and kids active and outside!  (Oh yeah and I’ll finally have a prize for everyone who plays “Name that Caption!”)

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Sentimental Snapshots: Walk Like a Camel

Sentimental Snapshots.
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Today’s Sentimental Snapshot is brought to you from the archives of summer 2005, when Steve and I took a trip to Morocco.  We were blessed with the opportunity to hand-deliver care packages to several American families serving as volunteers all over the country – and of course we couldn’t help but find a little adventure along the way!  We ferried our way from Spain into the port-city of Tangier (breaking every guidebook’s rule about not arriving after dark…), and wandered around the funky cold medinas of Fez and Meknes before working our way south through Ifran to Merzouga, a gateway town to the Sahara Desert.  After arriving in town at 3 am and convincing a local restaurant owner to let us crash in his cyber-cafe for a few hours, we embarked on a camel trek out towards the Algerian border.  Spending a night underneath the stars in the Sahara Desert with just a sleeping pad and a blanket is definitely an experience I’ll never forget (as well as trying to find a discreet place to go to the bathroom the next morning…)  After unknowingly offering up my most favoritest bandana to the sand dunes (the one in the picture…sigh) we rocked the casbahs at Ouarzazate, meandered through the markets of Marrakesh, and dove off the cliffs at Ouzoud before taking a train north through Rabat and Casablanca.  It was a whirlwind trip, complete with all the lost luggage, snake handling, and sketchy cab rides you’d expect from a North African adventure.  I like this picture because it captures all of the ridiculous, goofy fun we enjoyed together both then and now.  (And by the way does anyone else remember that song by Southern Culture on the Skids – “Walk like a Camel“?  It was in my head during the entire duration of writing this post.) 

Steve: "Camels in the desert. That's how I roll." Me: "Look Mom, no hands!"

Looking back on it now, I’m realizing our travels will probably never be that free-spirited and spontaneous again.  I must be growing up though, because realizing that the “wild and carefree” adventure chapter is over doesn’t make me sad – it just makes me all the more thankful to have survived that chapter long enough to make it to the next chapter as a family of three – which may not be as spontaneous, but is certainly every bit as fun and adventurous!  For those of you with children, how does adventure look different for you now?

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An Interview: Aimee Roseborrough

Interviews.
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Since the start of Cragmama, I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to cross paths with several strong and amazing women – women who are not content to settle for the status quo of abandoning adventure at the first sign of an expanding belly.  Women who are committed to getting not just themselves but their whole families outside enjoying nature – whether its climbing, biking, hiking, or building treehouses!  So I’ve decided to start a new section on my blog dedicated to all the mamas out there who believe that starting a family doesn’t mean an end to outdoor fun.  Interviews with Moms that Rock will be a place for stories from real women who embody what the spirit of Cragmama is all about!  Read on, and prepare to be inspired!

First up is Aimee Roseborrough – I first “cyber-met” Aimee a couple of years ago, when she had some encouraging comments for me on one of my trip reports about climbing during pregnancy.  Since Cragbaby’s arrival we’ve been swapping tips and stories via email with regards to kids at the crag.  Aimee climbs HARD.  Really hard.  And both her and her husband Kyle are blessed with flexible enough schedules that they can go on several extended climbing trips throughout the year.  Aimee works by day as a Physical Therapist, and along with her husband runs a website that is a great resource for injured climbers.  She also has a personal blog documenting all her travels and adventures.  It would be nice if maybe one day we could actually meet in person and share a rope together.  Here’s her story.

Aimee cranking in Frankenjura, Germany - I wish I looked that relaxed on 5.12d!

Cragkid Ella hiking to a crag in Spain (carrying her own rope!)

Name: Aimee Roseborrough
Age: 36
Cragkids/Ages: Ella, 4
Currently from: Bend, OR
Climbing for: 13 years

Favorite Climbing Area: Tough question, but I think Spain is my favorite place to climb. There’s a crag called Sella near Valencia that is amazing tufa limestone. It’s near the coast, so it’s good for kids and I love the Spanish culture. We spent 5 months there last Spring and found plenty of kid stuff on rest days and the crag is super kid friendly as well.

Proudest Climbing Achievement: Sport-climbing – Climbing 8a and sending Heinous Cling, a super run-out 12c at Smith. Trad-climbing- hula hooping on top of Ancient Art in Moab, UT.

How old were your kid(s) when they first went to the crag? At 6 weeks old we took Ella on her first climbing road trip to Red Rocks, NV. She did great, but it took us about twice as long to drive out there because of having to stop to nurse.

Does Ella climb? She climbs a little, mostly in the gym. She started on the “baby wall,” a small bouldering slab at our old gym, at about 2. Today she made it to the top of the wall in our new gym for the first time!

Sending a bouldering project in Flagstaff, AZ

Has your attitude with regards to the risks in climbing changed at all since having a child? I may be slightly more cautious when actual danger is involved, such as climbing to the first bolt or topping out a boulder problem. I’m more likely to just down climb rather than top out a tall boulder because I know how hard it would be to take care of my child with a sprained or broken ankle.

What is the most challenging aspect of family climbing trips? Finding places where there are fun kid activities on rest days. When Ella was younger the hardest thing was getting in her nap because she had a hard time napping at the crag. It’s also a bit challenging to hike out to the the crag and back because Ella is naturally a slow hiker. She can go faster, but just doesn’t want to, which can be tough when we’re carrying heavy packs!

What is the most rewarding aspect of family climbing trips? Getting to spend quality time with my daughter and instilling a love for the outdoors in her.

Fun for the whole family on a rest day in Spain with a 1 year old Ella

If you could offer one piece of advice to other mama’s out there what would it be? Start early and don’t be intimidated by the amount of gear you need. Just get out and try and it will get easier. Some days will be a wash and you just have to be able to go with the flow and know you’ll have a better day next time.

Anything else you would like to add? Don’t underestimate the power of leaving the kiddo with the grandparents and going out with just your climbing partner (especially if that’s your spouse as well).

Aimee is a refreshing rebuttal to the notion that its impossible to get back into shape after popping out a kid. I’m pretty sure you can’t climb 5.13 with flab-abs.  Thanks so much to Aimee for agreeing to let me interview her – if you enjoyed her story, leave her some comment love!

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The Heresy Saga

Climbing. Other.
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At some point I think most climbers develop what I like to think of as “Daydream Projects” – routes that for whatever reason, almost seem to call your name.  Maybe its because the route is particularly aesthetic or has a famed notoriety associated with it.  Perhaps the route speaks to you because you know it will  push either your mental or physical abilities (or both!).  Or maybe you keep obsessing over it because you’ve gotten on it so many times and keep falling off at the same dang spot.  You have a connection to the route on a personal level.  You rehearse the crux sequences in your sleep, analyze the beta with your climbing partners, and can’t figure out why non-climbers don’t get sweaty palms just looking at pictures of the route. But regardless of the reasons why certain routes speak to certain people, its a celebrated day when these types of projects are finally packaged up and sent!

The crux crossover move on the face

For me, one of these such routes was Heresy (5.11c) at Lilly Bluff at the Obed in eastern Tennessee.  No doubt its an area classic, and ridiculously intimidating from the ground – a 50 foot technical face climbing extravaganza followed by a 25 foot completely horizontal roof.  Its also a great example of the style of climbing that the Obed is known for.  But I think the main reason why Heresy made such a personal impression on me was the timing of when I was first introduced to it.

My husband and I took our first trip to the Obed during the spring of 2008, and had only been climbing for a little over a year.  I was just starting to break into leading sport routes in the low 5.10 range.  On that first trip with us were our friends Scott, Chip, Stephanie, and Rhonda, all of whom were much more experienced and well-traveled than us.  That first trip we only spent one day at Lilly Bluffs – while everyone else took turns hopping on a small selection of easier routes, Scott and Chip had their sights set on Heresy.  I remember watching them work the route, amazed that it was possible for relatively normal (strong climbers yes, Sharma-like powers, no) to climb something that literally was horizontal – and then hearing them joke about how looks can be decieving, that the hardest moves were actually on the face.  After they were done putting on a clinic, I timidly volunteered to clean the gear on toprope.  I only needed to get through the face climbing, since all the gear in the roof is fixed.  However, I proceeded to surprise myself by finishing the route!  Sure I had a good bit of “top-rope help” through the crux, and yes, I stayed in the chimney for at least 15 minutes before finally being coaxed out onto the daunting roof.  I also hung at every single bolt in the roof because I didn’t want to swing out if I fell – but I made it to the end.  I remember being very thankful that I had the opportunity to get on a route like Heresy, because I just knew there was no way I’d ever be able to hang a rope on something of that caliber by my own strength.

Mustering up the courage to head out onto the roof last October

Fast forward 3 and a half years later – Steve and I returned to the Obed, this time as much stronger and more experienced climbers (trip report found here).  Somewhere in the back of my mind was cautiously optimistic about getting back on Heresy, this time on the sharp end.  To be honest, I didn’t care a thing about the redpoint – I just wanted to get up it on lead.  I figured I was strong enough to at least flail my way past the crux, and knew that there was no pressure of leaving gear behind once I got to the roof, thanks to the perma-draws, nor any need for a fear of falling, thanks to the steepness factor (no chance of hitting anything, just big airy swings!).  On our first day there we saw another group on it.  They must have seen me drooling at it, because the last person in their group offered to trail our rope up.  I took them up on their offer, and was pleased that although I fell once at the crux, I did the roof clean.  A few days later, as a grand finale to the last day of our trip, I finally tied into the sharp end and led Heresy.  I fell once at the crux, and fell again trying to clip the chain anchor, but was overjoyed to have completed the climb.

Working the roof

Even though my performance on it was far from stellar,  Ever since then I’ve been dying to get back there so I can work on it some more.  Take another fast forward to last weekend – we finally made it back out there for a short day and a half trip (click here for the trip report). It started pouring down rain on us around 1000 on the first day – no worries, I thought.  Heresy will for sure stay dry, which the majority of it did…except for the tail end of the crux, and the opening moves of the roof, which after an hour of rain had turned into a small waterfall from seepage.  I was a little bummed, but there’s a million other fantastic climbs there keep us busy, so I just figured it wasn’t my time to send.  The next day when we went back to Lilly, I was almost giddy to discover that the wet areas appeared to have dried overnight.

Even though the rock was a little sweaty from all the humidity and I knew conditions were by no means perfect, I decided to give it a go anyway.  I wasn’t too confident about finagling my way through the crux since I had trouble remembering my beta, so I wasn’t really looking for a redpoint on my first attempt.  But as soon as I tied in I felt calm, focused, and solid, and before I knew it, I was through the crux and up in the chimney!  At this point I realized that I actually had a chance to send this sucker, so I made sure to get a good rest in the chimney before taking on the roof.  Each clip in the roof went smoothly until it came time to clip the single chain anchor…no matter what position I got my body in I just couldn’t reach it, and my pump-o-meter was sky high at this point! 

"Go Mommy, go!"

I lost focus for a split second as I realized this was the same place I fell at last time, and how heartbreaking it would be to botch it right at the end like this.  I knew I needed to find a better stance, so I took a couple of controlled, deep breaths, cut my feet, and swung my left leg into a heel hook on the other side of the roof.  This allowed me to take just enough weight off my screaming arms to allow me to take a hand off to clip in.  As soon as I felt the rope slide through the carabiner, my spirits soared (and said something dorky like “wahoo”) as I was lowered back to the ground.

Of course it feels fantastic anytime you send a project.  But after only 4 total runs my experience on Heresy hardly qualifies as impressive when stacked up to all the work Chris Sharma had to put into Jumbo Love (5.15b) or how long Tommy Caldwell had to train for all of his free ascents on El Cap.  I guess I’m realizing that my bigger project these days is being the best role model I can be for Cragbaby – and an important part of that is teaching him to set goals and work towards achieving them, both on the rock and off!

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN