Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

Tennessee = Thunderstorms and Composting Toilets

Other.
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Steve warming up on Tarantella (5.10a)

We set off late Friday afternoon on another weekend climbing trip, this time to the Obed River, in Eastern Tennessee.  The forecast called for a 30% chance of afternoon showers on both days – so of course that meant storms the majority of the day on both days (yet again).  Although I’m relieved that we always manage to make trips more than worthwhile (thankfully once again we were still able to crank hard both days), I’ll be honest that the rain is starting to get old…fortunately this time we didn’t have to spend our evenings hanging out in a soggy campsite.  Since we were arriving so late Friday night and weren’t sure whether our typical “secret” spot would be available or not, we decided to splurge by staying at the newest climber accomodations in the area – The Obed River Hostel.

Let me preface by saying that the Obed River Hostel is not for everyone.  If you are the type of climber that refuses to compromise on your post-climbing amenity needs, you won’t be happy here.  But if you’re a simple soul with an easy-going attitude just looking for a place to lay your head and relax with friends, then this place is for you!   After a long day of pulling on sandstone, it felt good to come “home” to a dry, clean space with a fantastic mountain view!  No need for camp stoves and such, as we had a stove, sink, and kitchen table.  The owner has a 2.5 year old boy, so the lower level was not only child-proofed, but also filled with fun toys for C to enjoy.  The sleeping quarters were on separate floors from the main area, which meant that Cragbaby could snooze away in an upstairs room while we all made merry downstairs.  The best part for us was that there was another climber staying there for the weekend that was in need of a partner – expanding our crew to 5 meant that we could climb as two parties of two (and still have a designated baby-watcher), rather than one party of four, which meant lots more climbing for all!

"I found a big one for my collection guys!"

However this is not your typical hostel, and I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a few of its idiosyncracies – its actually a large house that the owner (Erik – a climber and also a very nice guy) built himself.  Erik advertises his home as “an experience in sustainable living,” as it is totally off the grid – made functional by solar power, filtered rain water, and a composting toilet.  This meant that a lot of basic things didn’t work quite the way we were used to (showers, toilet, stove, etc).  All of these little quirks were a bit overwhelming at first, but definitely grew on us once we got a feel for the place.  For those of you wondering about the toilet, it was actually kinda cool – it was ridiculously clean and smelled only of mulch (because after a #2 you’d toss in a couple of handfuls to help with the composting).  The only real downside I saw to it was that it was outside (not a problem now, but my guess is that it wouldn’t be that fun in December).  There also wasn’t any insulation or carpeting – which meant that the slightest noise was heard by everyone in the house.  To be honest I was worried that all the noise would keep C (and therefore everyone else) up all night – but he crashed easily both nights without so much of a peep til the next morning!

Working through Heresy's roof

As a whole our group had no qualms about the primitive nature of our accomodations, and although we all agreed that the price may have been a little steep, we thought the hostel added a unique and memorable flavor to our weekend adventure!

But enough about the hostel – on to the climbing!  We ended up spending both days at Lilly Bluffs, and here’s what we hopped on:
Tarantella (5.10a) – a fantastic warm-up  along a tall, airy arete.
Lounge Lizards (5.11b) – another tall and very fun climb, started out on moderate terrain up a flake system before getting steep and pumpy, then finally blasting out a roof slot.  I had to hang to figure out my beta for the slopey crux, and had hoped to give it a redpoint go later on in the day, but the storm soaked the top pretty thoroughly, thwarting my chances.
Clyde the Mega Dude (5.11b/c) – Geez I led this one 3 times and still fell at the crux every time!  The first time it took me a long time to figure out how to make the dynamic move to a big flat jug, the second time I had my hands weird so I didn’t get enough extension to reach the jug initially, and the third time everything went right but by then it was so humid that the jug had turned grimy, so my hand slipped right off, making it difficult to even finish.  I’m pretty sure cool, crisp conditions would make this route way easier.
Ivy League (5.11b) – This one kicked my butt.  Maybe I was just tired but it felt way harder than 11b to me.  I bailed up high after falling twice (and bashing my shin once) trying to make a clip – the bleeding that then ensued caused flashbacks to the Maple Canyon incident…Turns out the clipping jug was farther left and disguised as a bad sloper.
Paraphernalia (5.10b/c) – Very fun!  Steep jug-hauling with plenty of rewards for good footwork!

Our crew hanging in the main area of the hostel

Day 2 – Christie and Bennett had to leave by lunchtime, so we decided to get right back down to business…
Lounge Lizards (5.11b) –   The top was dry, but unfortunately I was still too pumped to get through the crux cleanly.  I don’t mind keeping it as a project until next time however, because after I got off this one…I SENT HERESY!!!
Heresy (5.11c) – As Goal #1 from the 2011 Hit List, this route was one of my main objectives on the trip.  I had been disappointed that I couldn’t climb it the day before due to seepage from the thunderstorm, so I was thrilled that not only was it dry, but that I nabbed the redpoint on my first go!  A route this good deserves way more words than this post can afford, so if you wanna hear more about this line, click here for a detailed spotlight!
Alien (5.10d) – An awkward, reachy roof move guards the steep, jug-haul party that awaits above.  Stellar route, and a great way to end the trip!

Steve cleaning Heresy in the midst of the downpour while Cragbaby catches up on his beauty sleep

Every time I’ve ever gone climbing in Tennessee I’ve always left feeling both exhausted and motivated. And though  the weather tried its best to ruin our fun, I’m thankful that none of us let it.  I can’t wait to get back there again, hopefully for a longer trip next time!  Oh yeah, and I do have a few more pics, if you’re interested, click here.

Its almost crux time on Lounge Lizards (5.11b)

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Because a Cragbaby’s Gotta Eat…

Creating a Cragbaby. Camping.
5 Comments.

Cragbaby fuels up at camp with a "squeezie."

For the first 6 months of his life Cragbaby was on a breastmilk only diet. Food at the crag was easy – as long as he was with Mommy he wouldn’t go hungry!  Even when it came time to introduce solids we were still relying on breastmilk for the bulk of his nutrition, so it wasn’t until around the 9 or 10 month mark that we had to start planning out C’s crag menu along with our own.  Now that Cragbaby is a big boy, we’ve had to devise our own plan for making sure our picky toddler is putting more than just dirt in his mouth on climbing weekends. The following is a list of tips that have proven to be invaluable in keeping C not only nourished, but usually entertained as well!

1.  Eat and Run – Cragbaby has never been one of those mild-mannered babies content with being quietly spoon-fed from someone’s lap while everyone else dines at the table.  Attempts to do so usually end up with spilled drinks, dropped food, and frustrations all around – the only winners here are any furry friends scavenging below for scraps!  We’ve discovered that a more “on-the-go” eating strategy works out well for all parties involved (especially when we’re outside and no one cares about the trail of crumbs left behind!).  Instead of just chasing C around while he explores, I chase him around with a granola bar, offering him a bite every time he stops to catch his breath.

The portable high chair allows Cragbaby to be part of all the action!

2.  Seat with a View –  If our crew is having a meal together as a group back at camp (or if the crag setting is not conducive for roaming) we perch Cragbaby up with everyone else so he can be part of the mealtime conversations.  If there is a picnic table at our campsite, we use a portable high chair.  Ours is made by Chicco and its been a lifesaver numerous times – its relatively cheap (less than $35) and easily hooks on to any picnic table.  If there isn’t a table, we simply strap C in to his backpack carrier – so long as other folks are sitting with him and he’s getting food, he is usually quite happy to remain there long enough for everyone to grab some grub. 

3.  Eat Your Greens – Since C is still doesn’t have enough chompers to handle easy-to-pack raw veggies like carrots or broccoli, he could easily go a whole weekend without eating any veggies.  Not a big deal every now and then, but as often as we rely on eating at camp or out of a backpack, I want to make sure that we’ve got enough tasty and healthy options.  We’ve had a lot of success with “squeezies” (our unofficial name).  Made by several different companies, these resealable pouches are made with blended wholesome ingredients (no weird fillers), and have a consistency of applesauce.  They are made with all different combinations of fruit and veggie mixes, pack well, and best of all taste great!   Cragbaby’s favorite brands are Happy Baby, Plum Organics, and Trader Joe’s, which we rotate through depending on what’s on sale.

The backpack worked out nicely at the New River Rendezvous - it kept C out of the road and allowed everyone to have a nice breakfast.

4.  Container Entertainers – Having plenty of containers on hand means that not only will you have less wasted food (please tell me my kid’s not the only one who takes one bite out of the granola bar before signing the words, “All done!”), but also plenty of nesting, stacking, pouring, and collecting tools.  One of Cragbaby’s favorite pasttimes is filling empty tupperware containers with various nature trinkets (rocks, twigs, sand, etc), then gleefully dumping out the contents on our blanket before gathering them all up again. 

5.  Hydration Stations – Especially with warmer temps on the way, don’t forget to have water easily available to your tyke, and to offer often.  We of course have a sippy cup available, but one of the best parts of a climbing day according to C is getting to drink out of the camelbak like Mommy and Daddy.  Cragbaby is also still nursing a few times a day, which goes a long way in keeping him well-hydrated, as well as filling in any nutritional gaps caused by picky eating. 

Hydration is serious business, guys!

6.  Safety First – Let’s face it, offering food to a curious toddler is fun, so odds are that if you are climbing with or near a group, other people are going to be offering your child food.  Remember that most non-parents are not aware of potential food allergens and choking hazards.  The crag is not the time or place that you want to discover that your child has a peanut allergy.  Be sure to inform everyone in your climbing party if there are certian foods or drinks that you don’t want your child to have.  Also don’t forget to remind them not to offer giant pieces of food or to allow your child to put things like rocks in their mouths.  It sounds simplistic, but just a few months ago, when we were climbing at the Red, I saw a random girl (from a party that was  climbing next to ours) offering C some sort of cookie that was similar in size and shape to a shooter marble.  When I explained to her it was a choking hazard, she said in disbelief, “I had no idea.  I just thought all kids liked cookies.”  Remember that YOU are the one responsible for keeping your child safe, and at the crag you need to be just as vigilant, probably more so.

With the right food choices and a flexible attitude, eating in the Great Outdoors doesn’t have to be complicated.  And the best part?  No crumbs to sweep up afterwards!  What about everyone else?  I’d love for others to chime in on their must-haves for making outdoor mealtimes a success!

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New England Glider Series Ropes

Gear Reviews.
8 Comments.

Your rope – as a climber, it’s the one piece of gear that you don’t back up, so it better be a good one, right?  I’ve climbed on many different ropes over the
years, but my favorites above all are the New England Glider series – and specifically their 70m 9.9mm bipatterned rope.  Here’s what makes this rope stand out above the rest…

  • Twill-Pattern-Technology – What makes all of the Gliders so smooth is the 1 over 1 sheath design – not only does it feel great in your hand
    but it also has noticeably less rope drag than other ropes.  The first time I climbed on it I literally double-checked at least 3 or 4 times mid-route to make sure I was still tied in, because it was so light I could hardly feel it.
  • EnduraDry – You can rest easy and climb on no matter what the forecast, because this rope is “double dry treated” – both the sheath and the core are treated, giving double the protection (which has come in handy for us quite a bit during those afternoon thunderstorms the Southeast is known for).
  • A lightweight combination – It seems as though 70m is the new 60 these days…I’ve never been sorry to have the extra length – its enabled me to link pitches together without fear of running out of rope, which sometimes means the difference between sending and bailing. And because it’s only a 9.9, it doesn’t feel any heavier in my pack than a 10.2mm, 60m.
  • Bi-patterned No more desperate searching for the middle of your rope in those last fleeting moments of sunlight!  The bi-pattern makes setting up your end of day rappels a breeze.
  • Feeds Smoothly – In our experience we had great success using this rope with a wide variety of belay devices – we found that even though 9.9mm was not recommended for use with the original grigri, this particular rope still had plenty of bite to auto-lock (just our experience – your mileage may vary!), which means it works equally well for projecting sport routes as itdoes long days of plugging gear. As a side note, the new grigri 2 now includes 9.9mm ropes in their recommended range of diameters.
  • Only 5% Static Elongation – This is what sold my hubby on this rope.  As a bigger dude, he is not a fan of super-stretchy ropes that force him to redo crux sequences over and over while working routes.  Less static elongation means less ground is lost on second/toproping falls, but a Standard Dynamic Elongation still provides for a nice soft catch for leader falls.
  • Long–lasting Durability – You’d think that such a thin rope wouldn’t last as long as its thicker, 10mm counterpart, but ours was used for almost 2.5 years before the sheath showed ANY signs of wear and tear.

The Rope Inspector...

My only complaint is hardly worth mentioning, but I figured that a balanced review would have at least one con.  I wish that the 9.9 bi-patterned version came in brighter colors – the dark, muted colors make it blend in a little too well with the rock to the point that it can at times be harder to see.  The other versions of the rope do come in brighter colors, and I wish those same options were available for the 9.9 bi-patterned.

Anybody need a fireman's belay?

All in all, these ropes are fantastic, and I would wholeheartedly recommend them to anyone!  If you’re in the market for a new cord (or even if you’re not – every climber worth their chalk knows you can never have too much gear!), check out the New England Glider series ropes – you won’t be disappointed, and they are worth every penny!

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A Day of Hot Flashes

North Carolina.
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Don’t worry, this post has nothing to do with skewed hormones and ticking biological clocks.  For those readers who are non-climbers, here’s a quick little lesson in climbing linguistics…

Onsight – Completing a route from bottom to top with no falls or rests on the rope the first time you attempt it, without any prior knowledge about the route.
Flash – Same as an onsight except that you had some helpful beta (info/tips) before attempting the route – such as observing someone else climb the route, reading someone else’s ascent notes, etc.
Redpoint – Completing a route from bottom to top with no falls or rests on the rope – but after more than one try.

My new favorite line at the Main Wall - Energy Czar (5.10d)

But enough about jargon, back to the hot flashes…it’s getting to be that time of year where Southeastern climbers start complaining about the heat and planning trips to higher altitudes out west.  A second (and cheaper) option is to skip the plane flight and climb at shaded crags.  North-facing crags  that only see sun for a small part of the day are your best bet.  This will buy you another month or so until the humidity sets in like a tangible wet blanket, making for a sweat-fest no matter what crag you’re at. 

The main walls at Crowder’s Mountain, our local crag, faces south – which means it sees sun pretty much all day.  Fortunately this aspect will make it a fantastic option long about December, but for right now its a long way from ideal.  The Hidden Wall area faces east, which means it roasts in the morning, but by mid-afternoon goes into shade.  So Steve, Bennett, and I came up with a master plan to maximize shade and minimize sun for Saturday – Main Wall in the morning, then siesta over lunch, Hidden Wall in the afternoon.

Cragbaby was nice enough to share his portable fan with Bennett

We got to the Main Wall early but probably not as early as we should have, because Electra (5.10c) was already baking by the time we got there.  It felt harder than I’d remembered it, probably b/c it felt like the chalk was melting off my hands as soon as they came out of my chalkbag.  I was proud of Steve for leading it even though he basically went bolt to bolt – I think he would have a good shot at the redpoint after warming up on something easier on a cooler day.  Thankfully the sun had gone behind a cloud when I hung the draws on Energy Czar (5.10d) – Wow what an amazing route!  An intimidating line from the ground, I was happy to be able to beat the heat and snag the onsight.  The start was a little funky, but the dihedral that came next was outstanding with a surprisingly exposed feel to it.  The crux was pulling over the bulge above the 4th bolt – its a little runout, and you can’t see the next bolt until you’re pretty much right on top of it.  Last time we were there we saw several people whipping off at the crux.  The route was originally done on gear (and called 5.11a).  I saw a fair amount of gear options while I was climbing, but it would be a very bold trad lead for sure. 

Steve on Top that Direct (5.10b)

At this point it was lunchtime and C needed a nap, so we trudged our way back down the hill.  After refueling, rehydrating and chilling in the shade for a while, we drove over to the Hidden Wall parking lot.  The routes are actually only about a 5 minute walk from the road, but you’re not allowed to park along the road.  So Steve dropped everyone and gear off at the road, and then parked at the Visitor’s Center a mile away.  Next we got on Toxic Shock (5.11d), which I can now say is my hardest flash to date! (In the interest of full disclosure its a 2-move wonder, but it still felt good to nail it first try!)  This route has a pumpy, in-your-face crux with funky beta right at the start.  Once you maneuver to the ledge above the 1st bolt the route backs off to pumpy, 5.10a terrain.  Had I gone first I think I would have for sure botched the funky hand sequence getting to the ledge, so I was glad I got to watch Bennett go first.  I ended my day by cleaning The Whining (5.11d/12a).  This time I was actually able to get to the top, so there’s progress.  I think I would have been able to link more moves together if it wasn’t the end of the day, but this route is definitely more of a long-term project for me.

Toxic Shock (5.11d)

As far as our master plan, it worked in the sense that we didn’t get pelted by the sun all day – but it seems like there was an awful lot of sweaty hiking with big packs compared to the amount of climbing we got in.  One plus was that Cragbaby got in a longer nap (most of it in an air-conditioned car!) than he usually gets when we are outdoors all day, which meant that his day ended back home with a happy bathtime instead of a meltdown.  Getting out early to the Main Wall and leaving at lunch seems reasonable (at the parking lot no later than 8 would be ideal), and heading to Hidden Wall in the afternoon would definitely be worthwhile (if we could coincide it with C’s naptime) but I’m not sure we’ll be repeating the combination of both any time soon.  No complaints here though – nothing beats a great day out on the rocks!

Cragbaby (aka Crag-Stud) struts his stuff

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Interview with Chicks Climbing

Climbing. In the News.
7 Comments.

Recently I was asked by Maijalisa Burkert of Chicks Climbing if I was up for an interview.  Who is Chicks Climbing, you might ask?  They are only the premiere go-to place for all things related to women’s climbing, both on ice and on the rocks.  Their instructional clinics  (“Chicks with Picks and “Chicks Rock“) can be found all over the country, where they promote self-reliance by teaching technical skills to help women become knowledgeable, independent climbers.  The theme of both their ice and rock climbing clinics is “Women climbing with women, for women.”   These Chicks also aren’t afraid to give back – over the past decade they have donated more than $150,000 to local women’s shelters in the Colorado region.  This is girl power at its finest, folks!

So with a rap sheet as cool as that, how could my answer to Maija have been anything but a resounding YES!  Please head on over to their site to check out what these cool chicks are doing – and if they’re in your area, maybe even sign up for one of their clinics (which I’ve heard nothing but amazing things about!)  If you are interested in reading my interview, you can read it here.

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN