Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

To All the Guy Climbers: A Rant and a Salute…

It was pretty crowded in the gym last Sunday.  The weather was crappy and there were a LOT of birthday parties going on.  I was patiently trying to maneuver through my fairly extensive warm-up routine before retreating to the training area to do some Power Enduro laps.  I was almost ready, just needed to do a handful of more challenging problems that I had really dialed.

There was already someone (a 20-something guy) working one of the boulder problems I was interested in doing.  He tried several times, and kept getting stuck at the crux, 3 moves in.  I waited until he took a break and stepped back, then I chalked up and walked over to the start of the problem.

Then this conversation happens…

Guy: “Are you going to do the white one?” (this problem that started right beside the problem I was intending to do, which happens to be 2 number grades easier)

Me: “Actually I was planning to get on the blue one.”

Guy, with a patronizing smile on his face: “That one’s a lot harder, you know.”

It actually took me a few seconds to understand what had just happened.  I was confused…why would he think I wouldn’t know that?!?  And then it hit me like a ton of bricks – I’M A GIRL.  If HE was struggling on a particular problem, then surely a GIRL would as well.  He’d better chivalrously point me in the direction of a problem I’d have a better chance of success at.

I wish I would have been quick-witted enough to procure my most innocent smile and say (as I twirl my hair), “Oh gee, I didn’t realize that, you’d recommend starting this one first?”  Then climb up and down the easier problem before linking into the harder one.  But I was so dumbfounded by how blatantly sexist his remark was that I just sort of awkwardly mumbled “I know” (probably sounding a little Napoleon Dynamite-esque) as I sat down at the start holds.  But I DID proceed to sail up the problem, so at least my actions spoke up for all womankind.

Girl power on Classic Arete at Dixon Boulders

Girl power on Classic Arete at Dixon Boulders

After I hopped down he started to backpedal a bit, asking me if I had any beta that could help him in the “tricky, technical section.”

This time I was ready.  “Ya know I don’t really remember what I did there, it all felt pretty straightforward to me.”

I then walked over to the training area, where I was able to channel all of my girl-powered rage into my best performance yet on my Power Enduro circuit.

So that’s the rant.

This is certainly not the first, nor will it be the last example of sexism at the climbing gym/crag.  I’m a member of several facebook groups/forums for women climbers, and quite often I hear stories about male climbers who assume that all female climbers are inexperienced little lambs needing a MAN to put up “girl routes” for them.  But I just assumed those guys were a**holes who were few and far between.

Which brings me to the salute.

I’m so thankful that I don’t have to put up with this crap out of my climbing crew.  Because our family has always had to have at least one extra partner with us for the last 5 years, we’ve developed a pretty extensive network of folks that we climb with on a regular basis.  And since males tend to outnumber females as a whole in the sport of rock climbing, a high percentage of the people we climb with end up being guys.  There’s a wide range of abilities, but a lot of them are A LOT stronger than me.  And I can honestly say that I’ve never had any of them make me feel like that guy at the gym did (which is why it took me so long to figure out what he meant!!!)

It made me realize that my male climbing partners are pretty great (the greatest of which is the Crag-Daddy himself, of course!)  So here’s a shout out to them – Steve Lineberry, Caleb Odell, Sam Stephens, Bennett Harris, Drew Hayes, Joe Virtanen, Kyle and Adam Drain, Emil Briggs, Chuck Bridgen just to name a few!

Now it’s your turn – I’d love to hear about your experiences with sexism at the crag/gym, be it via rants or salutes.  And of course, if you’ve got great, supportive climbing partners, call ’em out by name!

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Hidden Wall and a New Camera

This past weekend’s adventures were pretty low-key – a Saturday spent at Hidden Wall.  We started late, ended early, and kept things simple.  Our main objective actually was trying out the new camera we’d purchased the week before – a Sony Alpha a6000.  For years we’ve been pretty dissatisfied with our point and shoots, but we had a hard time justifying the bulk of a digital SLR in combination with all the other gear we have to carry into the crag.  But recently we’d been hearing a lot about the mirrorless system, which is a lot more compact.  So after reading up and talking up a few folks we know that have gone that way, we decided to go for it!

A sweet girl...

A sweet girl…

...who was SUPPOSED to be going to sleep!

…who was SUPPOSED to be going to sleep!

Now granted, we are far from professional photographers…BUT so far we are really happy with the results.  It came with a 16-50mm lens and we purchased a 55-210mm telephoto lens in addition.  While for sure bigger than a little point and shoot, the whole setup is still surprisingly compact.  It’s not any more inconvenient to hike into the crag, and while we obviously haven’t done it yet, dragging it up a multi-pitch seems reasonable as well.

Steve with some fancy footwork on Slabster's Lament (5.12a)

Steve with some fancy footwork on Slabster’s Lament (5.12a)

Slabster's Lament, mid-crux

Slabster’s Lament, mid-crux

Me heading left for Koma's Arete (5.11d)

Me heading left for Koma’s Arete (5.11d)

Ordinarily I wouldn’t warrant a trip report in order for such a casual day of local craggin’, but I was excited to share a few pics from the new camera.

My favorite part about this shot is the gleeful photobomber in the background

My favorite part about this shot is the gleeful photobomber in the background

My handsome, ragamuffin boy.

My handsome, ragamuffin boy.

I must admit, "Lord of the Flies" came to mind...

I must admit, “Lord of the Flies” came to mind…

Oh and you may have noticed the kids got a “little dirty.” As in, it took more than one round of bathwater to get everyone clean. There’s just something about the dirt at Hidden Wall that always makes my children look like chimney sweepers…oh well, I guess their immune systems should be in tip top shape right about now!

Little Orphan Z...

Little Orphan Z…

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Hopefully you can look forward to much better pictures on this blog from now on!

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Hidden Valley Fundraiser!

Tuesday night was a great one for the Charlotte climbing community.  It proved to me once again that NC climbers are a special group of people!  A few weeks ago, Garrett Gossett from the Charlotte Chapter of the American Alpine Club invite me to attend their next “Pint Night” to promote my new guidebook.  Once we put our heads together, we decided to take things a step further – why not turn this shindig into a fundraiser to benefit the Hidden Valley land acquisition?

Let the raffles begin!

Let the raffles begin!

Sycamore Brewery was kind enough to host our event, and the Bleu Barn Bistro’s food truck was parked right out front, offering delectable (and climbing-themed) local fare!  Raffle prizes were donated by Trango, REI, Skratch Labs, Hannah’s Coffee House, Misty Mountain, and Inner Peaks.  I also threw in a couple of guidebooks to be raffled off as well.

Katerina J. was the lucky winner of the Trango Crag Pack!

Katerina J. was the lucky winner of the Trango Crag Pack!

Sycamore had a great set-up.  Outdoor picnic tables with festive stringed lights were a perfect backdrop for a fun, family-friendly evening.  I even found a beer I liked, which is rare.  (The Salty Coconut, for anyone interested…)  The evening started out with me saying a few words about the guidebook writing process, then I hung out at the book table for a bit while everyone bought raffle tickets.  I was stoked to sell several books, and even signed some for donations (that also went towards Hidden Valley.)  The kiddos managed to make it ALMOST til the end before turning into pumpkins (thanks to the hubster for handling bedtime duty by himself that night!)

Memories of highschool yearbook signings at the book table

Memories of highschool yearbook signings at the book table

Since donations were coming in from a lot of different directions, it wasn’t until the next day that we found out how much money was raised…and the total came to $1100!!!  Way to represent, Charlotte!  For anyone that couldn’t make it out to the event but is planning on heading to Hidden Valley this summer, please consider giving online here.  The CCC is currently a little over halfway to paying off the purchase.

And for anyone that is interested in purchasing a guidebook, you can do so in a few different ways. 1) Buy them directly through me (infoATcragmamaDOTcom.)  2) Buy them at select retail locations – Inner Peaks, Triangle Rock Club, to name a few.  3) Buy them from the Earthbound Sports Publishing here.

 

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Rock Climber’s Training Manual: Performance Phase (aka RESULTS!)

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I’m writing this climbing-related post from just about as far away from the mountains as I can possibly get.  Hubby’s out of town on business, so me and the kiddos are taking the opportunity to hang out at my in-laws beach house in Sunset Beach, NC.  It’s the perfect way to enjoy my week of rest after wrapping up my very first Rock Prodigy training cycle.

To catch up any new readers, since January I’ve been using the program outlined in the Rock Climber’s Training Manual, written by my fellow Trango athletes Mark and Mike Anderson.  This periodized program took me through 4 distinct training phases – Base Fitness, Strength, Power and Power Endurance.  After completing all 4 phases I could in theory look forward to several weeks of “peak” performance.

I recapped the first two phases here, and the second two phases here, so all that’s left with this post is to talk about how the peak performance weeks went – ie, was all that discipline worth it?!?  And the best way to do that is to look at the numbers.

Notable Sends: Fired for Sandbaggin’ (5.12a), Le Futuriste (5.12b), Michelin Man Original (5.12b), Modern Primitive (5.12b), Hard Rock Cafe (5.12c)

Not the greatest picture, but I had to include a shot from Hard Rock Cafe (5.12c)

Not the greatest picture, but I had to include a shot from Hard Rock Cafe (5.12c)

OBSERVATIONS:

1.  SENDING THE SAME GRADE FASTER.  This was the most notable improvement for me.  For comparison’s sake, I made a graph that broke down my 5.12 sends in 2012, 2013/2014 (combined b/c I was preggo during a large part of those years), and 2015 (divided into training phases, and performance phases.)  Putting things on the graph made the improvement glaringly obvious – I went from sending 5.12 in around 4-6 attempts to averaging only 2.6 tries per send!

2.  FIRST 5.12c.  I ended my performance phase with a trip to the High Country, where I was stoked to send my first 5.12c – Hard Rock Cafe out at Hawksbill Mountain.  I’d tried it a couple of times last fall, and this time around it went pretty easily on my 2nd go of the day!

3.  MORE TICKS PER WEEKEND.  Up until this performance phase, I’d never sent more than one 5.12 in a single weekend (in fact, during my Twelve 12’s in 2012 plan, my goal was only to send one per month.)  But Week 1 of performance I sent a 12a and a 12b, and during Week 2 I sent a pair of 12b’s.  This worked out logistically because of observation #1.  Less attempts per route = more routes in a weekend!

My graph, courtesy of Steve Lineberry

My graph, courtesy of Steve Lineberry

Michelin Man (5.12b)

Michelin Man (5.12b)

4.  MULTI-DAY STAMINA.  Ordinarily on a 4 day trip I end up going more for mileage than hard sends.  And while I didn’t send any 12’s during Week 3’s trip to the Red River Gorge, I ended up with five 5.11 onsight/flashes, which is a lot for me, especially considering that steep, pumpy terrain is generally not one of my strengths.

5.  EFFICIENT MOVEMENT.  My natural climbing pace is ridiculously slow (which is probably why steep, pumpy terrain is generally not one of my strengths…)  But all those power endurance laps in the gym forced me to keep a pretty good pace to keep from pumping out.  I also realized I that I still had a decent amount left in the tank once the pump clock started ticking, and I became more comfortable and confident climbing while pumped.  I also saw an increase in my explosive power, which meant big moves suddenly became a little easier.

6.  BALANCE.  Anyone who knows me knows that rest is not something I’m good at.  But training hard helped me to learn the value of “resting hard.”  I actually found myself really welcoming the upcoming break and looking forward to it.  Of course I’m chomping at the bit to get on with the next season, but the program as a whole put me in a very balanced and healthy mindset with regards to training, for this take panax ginseng for this and to improve concentration and your general wellness.

Modern Primitive (5.12b)

Modern Primitive (5.12b)

So what’s next?  After geeking out via email with RCTM author Mark Anderson, I’ve actually got a basic training plan outlined through the end of the year.  It involves making sure my fingers are strong and my power is up before we head to Ten Sleep in August,  with a lot of power endurance training coming into the fall season.

But until then my plan is to squeeze in as much great climbing as I can before our local crags get engulfed by the Southeastern summer humidity blanket.  I’d love to hear from anyone else out there that’s used the RCTM (or any other periodized training plan), so please feel free to share your experiences in the comments below!

Enjoying the rest!

Enjoying the rest!

 

 

 

 

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“You’re a Good Mom.”

Today’s post is for the moms out there that find themselves living in doubt.  It’s an experience that happened a couple of months ago when our family was vacationing in Disney World for my son’s 5th birthday.  I hope that it will serve as a reminder to not underestimate the power that we have to encourage (or discourage) our fellow moms…

It started out as nothing more than a stubborn whine, easily drowned out by the swarms of folks making their way through Frontierland.  I glanced around – no one had even batted an eye.  I calmly scooted my rocking chair so that we were angled facing the corner, thinking (hoping) that maybe if my daughter was less distracted she’d be able to relax enough to nurse and fall asleep.

Not a fun evening at the Orlando Urgent Care

Not a fun evening at the Orlando Urgent Care

Let me back up a bit.  We were both exhausted, having spent the better part of the previous evening in the Urgent Care, since stuffy nose + plane flight always seems to turn into double ear infections for my kiddos.

Ironically the night before was the longest my daughter had ever slept without waking up to nurse…the pain in her ears had prompted a nursing strike that had gone on for 18 hours before she had finally latched on in her sleep around 5 am.  That session had provided me with a lot of relief, but I was still battling engorgement as well as sore nipples from her ahem, rather abrupt refusals.

The antibiotics worked quickly, as they often do for ear infections, and the next morning my sweet baby girl felt much better, though still not back to her usual perky self.  The rest of the family had headed into the Magic Kingdom very early that day, while I took my time with Baby Zu to make sure she was feeling okay.  She was very clingy, but very content riding on my back in the Bitybean, so we met up with everyone in Frontierland.  While my mother, son and husband flitted to and fro from ride to ride, my father and I found an out of the way porch equipped with rocking chairs.  It was the perfect spot for my dad to people-watch (one of his favorite things), and for me to attempt to nurse Baby Zu and get her down for her morning nap.

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It stinks when they’re sick…

But that’s when things started to escalate.  Within minutes of offering my breast to my daughter, she was not only shrieking inconsolably, but also writhing around as if I was torturing her.  People started turning their heads, probably convinced that they were about to become eye witnesses in a domestic violence case.  It was hard to believe such a loud sound could come out of such a tiny body.  This was one little girl who was ANGRY.  She was tired, so she wanted to nurse to sleep, but her ears still hurt too much to suck.  But when she’s hurting she seeks comfort from the breast…but then that made her ears hurt…and then that made her scream.  It was a maddening cycle that was impossible for a 12 month old’s brain to comprehend. See it here how to deal with such situations.

My dad of course had asked if there was anyway he could help, but there really wasn’t anything anyone could do.  She just needed to scream in her mommy’s arms, and all I could do was hold her and love her until she finally gave in to sleep.  As I wrestled with her in the chair, desperately trying to calm her down, I started to notice the eyes.  First it was just quick, darting glances from people that were passing by, but then it turned into blatant staring.  I looked away but I still felt everyone’s eyes burning holes into my head.

I could only imagine what they must be thinking.  “What’s wrong with that baby?”  “What’s wrong with that mother?” “MY child would never make a scene like that.”  “Looks like that mom has ZERO control of her kid.”  “I wish she’d make that child be quiet.”  Judgment after judgment came flooding into my mind, a I felt myself slowly starting to loose control of the situation.

Then suddenly, out of nowhere, a gentle voice spoke out over the deafening screams.

“You’re a good mom.”  

I looked up, shocked, and actually turned around to see if the voice was speaking to someone else.  It wasn’t.  The voice belonged to a beautiful older woman, who was sitting on a nearby bench with her husband while her two grandchildren enjoyed some ice cream.  She smiled very kindly at me, then turned her attention back to her grandchildren.

Not a flattering picture of me…but an accurate representation of how I felt at the time.

A few minutes later and Baby Zu was asleep in my arms, where she slept peacefully and comfortably for over an hour…and I may have dozed in and out of consciousness a time or two myself during that period.  A few times the woman engaged us in conversation a little bit more once she was settled, but only in small talk.  There was no more mention of the previous screamfest.

But my encounter with that woman stuck with me long after she was gone.  I don’t know what prompted her to speak up, but it was exactly what I needed at the time.  And the more i thought about it, the more I realized how easily she could have looked the other way.  So often as moms we get caught up in our own “stuff”, without taking notice of the people around us, or worse yet, allowing thoughts of comparison and judgment to filter into our minds when we see another mom struggling.

So I’ve got two “words” for you moms out there this Mother’s Day (can you tell I grew up Baptist? ;))  First of all, don’t be afraid to offer encouragement and support when you see another mom struggling, even if it’s only a kind word to a stranger.  A kind word may go farther than you think.

And secondly? YOU’RE A GOOD MOM.  🙂

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