Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

Toddler Sleep at the Crag: Play Hard, Sleep Hard.

When it comes to the topic of naptimes and 2 year olds, this can either be a period filled with blissful midday breaks, or frustrating afternoon battles (or sometimes a combination of the two…), depending on your child’s personality and sleep needs.  I’ve gotten a lot of questions recently regarding how we handle naps at the crag now that C is a big boy, so I figured this topic would be a good way to kick off my new blog series – Toddlers at the Crag.  This is a twist on my original post entitled “Sleepytime Solutions,” written back when C was at the tender age of 10 months old.  In some ways it’s a lot easier now – toddlers need less sleep.  There’s not a set number of waking hours after which C will turn into a pumpkin (or “Code Orange”, as we used to call it).  We don’t have to worry about squeezing in multiple naps – as long as we get one (even if it’s not that great), we’re usually in the clear.  But in other ways its harder – toddlers need less sleep! Also is important to remember that a good temperature is needed to sleep, we recommend using https://performancebasedheatingandair.com/. A high-octane toddler doesn’t want to miss anything, and therefore is not as easily lured into dreamland.  This can make naps at the crag a sweet dream at best, and a nightmare at worst.  Here’s a crag nap philosophy that seems to (more or less) work for our family…

The plan is for this…

…to lead to this!

The Purpose:
For us the sole purpose of a crag-nap is to give Cragbaby that extra little boost he needs to be able to make it through the afternoon and early evening hours without having a meltdown at dinner.  In a perfect world the stillness known as nap time also happens to line up with a redpoint run on a project or a hard onsight attempt, but I’m not always that lucky.  At home Cragbaby has settled into a very predictable schedule with a nap beginning around noon and lasting for 2-3 hours.  At the crag our schedule is pretty random, and the only thing that is less predictable than what time he goes down would be what time he wakes up!  Though he never sleeps as long as he does in his own crib at home, we sometimes get lucky and get a 2 hour crag-nap.  Other days we are lucky to get 45 minutes.  Regardless though, the nice thing about toddlers is that they are far more flexible than babies – as long as we can get some semblance of sleepage at some point in the afternoon, things are usually fine.  I can only think of one time where a whole day at the crag went by for C without a nap, and even then he crashed hard on the hike out and still managed to be in a decent mood at dinnertime.

It’s a tough life being a Cragbaby…

The Logistics:
Play Hard.  Sleep Hard.  That has always seemed to be Cragbaby’s mantra.  If he’s not tired, all of our rocking, hand-holding, snuggling, and soft music is a moot point, which can be pretty frustrating at the end of a long day.  On the flip side however, a Cragbaby at rest is very likely to remain at rest…NO MATTER WHAT!  Once he’s decided he wants to sleep, C can easily snooze soundly through whatever the rock climbing/camping equivalent is of World War 3.  Once we figured that out (and it thankfully didn’t take too long), we’ve been able to more or less take his sleeping personality and work it in our favor.  This means that if lunchtime rolls around and he’s not acting tired (for C the dead giveaway is eye-rubbing and gazing off into space, often accompanied by incessant whining), we don’t even try to put him down.

Sometimes Cragbaby never quite makes it to the blanket.

Once he seems ready, he goes for a stroll in the backpack carrier – when he falls asleep we deposit him, backpack and all, far enough away to be out of the action, but close enough that we can still keep an eye on him.  The main advantage to a backpack nap is that I don’t feel the need to sit right beside him the whole time he sleeps, since he can’t wander off when he wakes up.  Another advantage is that we can transport a sleeping Cragbaby in the backpack, I wish I could transport one of our adjustable beds with wall hugger technology.  Sometimes C is snoozing peacefully until a sudden noise wakes him up – dog barking, airplane fly by, or even sending screams.  Other times he’s just less than enthused about going in the pack. For these occasions we revert back to the infant months and cuddle with C on a blanket – he’ll either drift right back off to sleep (at which point we can usually transfer him onto the blanket), or he’ll snuggle in tight and gaze off into space for a while until he’s ready to get back to being his usual social self.

Does every nap at the crag go perfectly according to plan?  Certainly not.  But it’s always at least enough to get us through the rest of the day.  And on the flip side, a shorter-than-normal nap generally equates to a morning snoozer.  On our past 4 camping trips Cragbaby has woken up in his pack n play on the last day only to find out that the tent had mysteriously disappeared at some point during the “night,” since he was apparently too lazy to help break down camp!

Most importantly, be patient and don’t unfairly demand perfection out of your toddler, especially at first.  Nature is an exciting place, and its a far cry from a comfy, cozy bed at home.  Little folk do really well with a routine, but it will definitely take a few outings at least for your toddler to figure out the intended schedule of events.  Also, remember that as with infants (and maybe even more so!) toddler sleeping patterns will differ from one child to the next.  What works for our family may or may not be a good solution for yours, so don’t be afraid to experiment and learn through trial and error.  I would love to hear ideas from other climbing families with toddlers as well, so please feel free to share your thoughts in the comments section below!

 

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Success Story: A NEW Cragmama at the NEW!

I love hearing stories about other moms and dads who aren’t afraid to get right back out there on the rock!  That’s why when I heard it through the grapevine (aka Facebook) that my friend (and new mom) Lisa Bistreich-Wolfe had just gotten back from a family trip to the New River Gorge, I had to find out more.  Turns out Lisa, her husband Richard, and 11 week old Baby T had a marvelous weekend – and she was more than happy to give me a play by play worth sharing!   Here’s what Lisa had to say when I caught up with her…

A happy Baby T ready to get out on the rocks!

How old was Baby T when you guys took the overnight plunge?
We had wanted to do a day trip  for practice, but with family in town to meet Baby T and other obligations, we just didn’t make it out before Memorial Weekend.  So we just jumped right in and our first trip out was a three-day camping trip (Good thing it worked out! 🙂 )  Baby T was 11 weeks old.

Where was the scene of the climb?
We went to the New River Gorge in West Virginia – we climbed at Sandstonia, Junkyard, and the Bridge Buttress for a good mix of sport and trad. 

How did you know Baby T was ready for an overnight in a tent?
Honestly, I don’t think we really thought about it that way. It was more that MOM AND DAD were ready to sleep in a tent.  We figured Baby T would be fine (and he was).  He is a great sleeper and was already sleeping through the night when we went on the trip.

Can you share any tips that you think made the weekend run smoothly?
A good packing list was a big help.  We didn’t want to bring more than we needed, but having a few extra items around was nice.  For example, Bumbo Seat was great for giving Baby T a place to be while we unpacked and made  camp.  My husband and I were also so grateful for the help from our friends – having extra partners was a must!  Having multiple hands around to entertain Baby T, carry gear, and climb in areas we were comfortable hiking into with a baby was a key to our success.  One tip I would have for parents is to show your appreciation for your partners by trying to ensure (as much as possible) that your partners are able to meet some of their climbing goals as well.

A happy Mommy ready to get out on the rocks!

Were there any mishaps (learning what NOT to do) type moments?
The weekend really went amazingly well! The biggest “mishap” was baby T’s diaper explosion just as we were getting ready to head out to the crag.  But a few extra minutes, a new outfit and a lot of baby wipes cured that pretty quickly and gave us a good laugh!  The one thing I’ll add next time will be a creek chair to make breastfeeding in the tent and at the crag easier (it’s much nicer to have back support!).

What was the most challenging aspect?
I think the biggest challenge was probably the added weight on the approach for an out of shape Mom and Dad!   Sandstonia was super busy on Saturday, which was somewhat of a challenge with an infant, but we were really impressed with how much support we received from the climbing community, and it was nice to see other families there as well.

What was the most rewarding aspect?
Watching Baby T experience nature was by far the most rewarding aspect. When he was awake, he was constantly looking around, awed and interested in everything. It’s so fun to watch him learn, and it felt great knowing we were exposing him to nature so early. I am looking forward to continuing sharing many more of those experiences with him.  On a personal level, it also felt great to be back on the rock and sleeping in a tent again!

Lisa following Happy Head (5.8) at the Bridge Buttress

Would you consider your weekend to be a success? Do you have plans in the near future for another weekend climbing trip?
I’d definitely consider the weekend a success, and I can’t wait to do it again!  We haven’t planned anything yet, but I’m sure we will get out again a few more times this summer.

Aside from the obvious that there was an extra little person around, how did this climbing trip feel different than pre-kiddo trips?
I did a lot less belaying and a lot more feeding at the crag -lol! Overall, I think the trip was more low key. We decided to stick with moderate climbs to ease back into leading and make sure baby T was safe and happy.  We also added in some family type activities – on Sunday we climbed only half a day, then visited the bridge overlook and spent some time down by the river. It was fun to mix it up.

What advice would you give to moms/moms to be looking to get back on the rock and/or in the tent?
As far as climbing goes, I said it before but it’s worth saying again – having some helpful friends to climb with is key!  In addition to that I would suggest to be flexible.  The first few times you got out I wouldn’t go with a tick list.  Just enjoy being out and on the rock with your family and however many (or few) climbs you get on.  For example, I toproped a climb to save time that I ordinarily would have wanted to lead since Baby T was getting hungry – the rock will still be there, but my son is growing up fast!  

As for camping, if you have an infant that sleeps in the car, I would say prepare for the impact the drive will have on your baby’s sleep schedule, especially the first night. We weren’t able to leave until 6 p.m. the Friday night of our trip and Baby T slept most of the 4 ½ hour drive there…then was wide awake when we got camp set up and were ready for bed. He did manage to fall asleep but then woke up a couple times in the night.  It wasn’t a big deal, he nursed and went right back to sleep (and didn’t wake up others) but if we could have left closer to noon so he would have been up a while before bedtime that would have been ideal.

Anything else you would like to add?
Relax, be flexible, and most importantly, have fun 🙂 

The first of many family craggin’ portraits for the Wolfe family!

For those of you with toddlers/older kids, this is probably a somewhat bittersweet walk down memory lane.  It certainly was for me – and although things are much easier now, part of me kinda misses those first few trips where everything was brand new and we were flying by the seat of our pants.  I would second (and third, and fourth, and fifth) Lisa’s advice about hooking up with solid partners that love interacting with your little one, as well as the message about being flexible, especially during the early months!  For those newbie parents out there, I hope this interview served as inspiration to get out there and enjoy some summer days on the rocks and summer nights under the stars!  Many thanks to Lisa for sharing her thoughts in this interview!  If you enjoyed reading it, leave her some comment love below…

 

 

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Trad is Rad at the North End of Moore’s

Getting the day started on Shadowdance

Out of all the areas I’m covering in the Piedmont Guidebook, Moore’s has been one of the trickiest for hands on research.  Although I climbed at Moore’s quite often pre-Cragbaby, pregnancy and a baby made for a too-long hiatus.  (Due to the nature of the typical descent options we’ve found other areas to be much more kid-friendly, since a day at Moore’s means a day at the cliff sans Cragbaby).  Thankfully we have two sets of grandparents nearby, but we certainly can’t take advantage of them every weekend (nor do we want to – climbing is a family activity for us, and we kinda like having C around!)  That being said, my grunt work has mostly been a combination of prior experience, knowledge and resources, the help of several key individuals, and well-timed and purposeful day trips with a laundry list of tasks.    To be honest I hadn’t spent much time at the North End in my pre-Cragbaby days, as my leading ability back then made the other areas a more logical choice.  But fast forward a couple of years, and I’m significantly stronger than I was back then, and ready to push myself on gear – and now that the falcon closure has been lifted, the North End is now a perfect playground for both my professional (guidebook) as well as personal (just plain fun)  enjoyment!  

So on a remarkably cool and unseasonably crisp weekday last week, I met a couple of friends out at the North End.  Not surprisingly, we had the whole place to ourselves save a few random bird sounds off in the distance that we were all certain came from pterodactyls (it sounded like it anyway).  Here’s how the day went down…

Rob gettin Boogie-fied

Shadowdance (5.10c) – I had been on this once before, but this is the first time I had ever led it, and it was even more fun than I remembered it!  A technical dance up some aesthetic finger cracks, with great gear in all the right places.  A superb line – actually looking back on it, I could probably say that about all the routes we did, since they were all classics!
Boogie Til Ya Puke (5.12b) – My friend Rob is currently working on this and is frustratingly close – he’s down to a one-hang, each time with a high point one move farther than the last.  We all know how frustrating that feels…I cleaned the gear after one of his attempts.  This sucker is HARD.  Burly and sustained, with one hard move after another, culminating with a few long moves off of a redpoint crushing sloper before finishing on steep, but juggy terrain.  This route is definitely above my pay grade – I flailed through the business and finally pulled on a draw.  
Vascular Disaster  (5.11c) – I cleaned this one.  I’d heard horror stories about how hard the start was for short folk, but it actually felt a lot easier than what I had steeled myself for (says the person on a toprope…:) )  A few campus-esque pulls but pretty straightforward.  There was a good rest stance right after the initial low roof, but the remainder of the climb was steep, sustained pulling on great holds (with a rather committing section in the middle for the leader).  My forearms were on fire up towards the top, but I managed to eek through clean.  Another time or two to up my confidence at the start and I think I’d be ready to lead it.  I was ready to call this my favorite line of the day, but then Rob talked me into putting my try hard pants on and tackling one more…

This is Rob trying to convince me to lead Mighty Mouse…or perhaps it’s his “So You Think You Can Dance” audition. Can’t remember which, it’s one of the two.

Mighty Mouse (5.11c/d) – So this is by far the hardest gear line I’ve ever tackled on the sharp end.  I can’t believe I got talked into leading it without at least following it first, but Rob gave me an offer I couldn’t refuse – a complete spray down of all the gear beta, including the order each piece needed to be racked on my harness, as well as a free pass to bail at any point if I wasn’t feeling up to it, since he was wanting to get on it anyway.  I knew the line would probably never be gift-wrapped quite so neatly for me again, so considering this route also has a reputation for being the most well-protected line at the grade at Moore’s, I figured what better way to break into 5.11 trad? (which after all was one of my goals on my 2012 Hit List).  I’m not gonna lie, I felt pretty nervous.  Pushing limits on bolts is a no brainer –  all you have to do is put the rope in a (more than likely already hanging) quickdraw. whereas on gear you actually have to do stuff besides climb…and it’s pretty important stuff too, like thinking about how to keep yourself off the deck.  The ironic thing however is that Mighty Mouse is actually better protected than a lot of sport routes…

Anyway, Mighty Mouse once upon a time was 5.11b, but over the years a few holds have broken off in the crux, slowly but surely pushing the grade up to the .11+ range.  The first section was a funky little chimney to an interesting seat aptly perched right below the long and sequency crux.  A quick traverse led to another crack, this one much easier.  I was delighted to find that I didn’t have too much trouble deciphering or making the moves, rather I found the real strenuous part to be placing the gear – I was definitely redlining in a few spots. I was clean in the first section, hung on my pieces through the crux, and then finished up the second crack clean.  A serious redpoint attempt is going to take a lot of beta refining to be able to move smoothly and efficiently through the pumpy bits, but I’m definitely psyched to get back and work on it soon!  

Down low on Mighty Mouse

 

A mighty classic!

All in all, stellar day!  I was able to get on several of the North End classics as well as confirm a bunch of other descriptions for the guidebook.  What I’m most excited about however, is that I’m realizing that the North End can easily be thrown into the summer/fall day trip rotation for our family.  Unlike the majority of routes at Moore’s, many of the lines at the North End descend from a fixed anchor at the top of the climb, so the leader can belay from the ground, which is obviously a necessity with C around.  In fact, the base of the cliff is for the most part flat and sandy, with plenty of rocks to scramble around on – perfect for an active, exploring toddler.  The only downside is the approach, which is fairly long when you add a 30 pound cragbaby to your back in addition to all the climbing gear.  But the good news is that, though a bit steep in sections, the hike is not technical or exposed, which means a motivated C will be psyched to walk on his own for at least part of the way.  So North End, here we come!

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Adventures in Fatherhood

Not that I ever had a heart of stone before I had kids, but ever since Cragbaby came along I’ve noticed that I turn into a sappy ball of mush at the drop of a hat when it comes to reflective songs, movies, or conversations involving the love between parent and child.  For the first 6 months post-partum I blamed it on wild hormones, but at 26 months I hardly have that excuse anymore.  It may have something to do with that old adage that having a child means that you are forever destined to wear your heart on the outside of your body.  At first I was a little embarrassed about it – it’s one thing to get a little misty-eyed in the car with C whenever I hear that country song about the dad lecturing the prospective suitor and cleaning his gun (probably because my dad really WAS waiting in the living room with gun cleaning kit in hand when my now-hubby came to pick me up for my junior prom), but it’s quite another to blubber like an emotional wreck throughout the entirety of “We Bought a Zoo.”  (Just when I had myself under control, Matt Damon would start reliving memories with his wife again…).  But the more I think about it, the more I’m seeing my newfound capacity to feel a little more deeply as a gift.  Maybe it’ll help keep my priorities in check over the years and I’ll be less tempted to take the smallest but most meaningful things in life for granted.  

But Father’s Day is one of those times where even the hardest of hearts soften up a little bit, and now that my husband is a dad, there are two men in my life to celebrate!  So in honor of the dads (and to pay homage to my emo habit), here’s a few song lyrics that seem appropriate for this special occasion…

Me and my sweet Daddy, circa 1985

 “But I loved her first and I held her first
And a place in my heart will always be hers
From the first breath she breathed
When she first smiled at me
I knew the love of a father runs deep
And I prayed that she’d find you someday
But its still hard to give her away
I loved her first”
-I Loved Her First, by Rodney Atkins 

Cragbaby and his sweet Daddy

“He said I’ve been watching you dad, ain’t that cool
I’m your buckaroo, I wanna be like you
And eat all my food and grow as tall as you are
We like fixing things and holding mama’s hand
Yeah we’re just alike, hey ain’t we dad
I wanna do everything you do
So I’ve been watching you”
– Watching You, also by Rodney Atkins 

 Although we haven’t done it since Cragbaby’s been born, my dad and I have a long history of going on Father/Daughter Adventures together.  My childhood memories of these adventures consist of a blur of mountains, coonskin caps, bears, and swinging bridges.  Our grown-up adventures usually involve bikes and some sort of mishap (For a play by play of the last trip, click here…)  I’m so thankful for the experiences we’ve been able to share together, and I look forward to many more.  As far as my “baby daddy” goes, he’s pretty awesome as well.  C is a lucky little guy because he gets to go on adventures with his Daddy all the time (and I’m glad that most of the time they let me come along too…)  What about everyone else?    Let’s brag on all the dads out there – what memories and adventures come to mind first when you picture either your own dad or your child’s dad?

 

 

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Lessons Learned from the Fifth Planeteer – aka Groove is in the Heart

For those of you readers that are on the other side of 30, you may remember a TV show called Captain Planet.  The heroes of this kid’s series were 5 environmental good guys, known as “planeteers,” each possessing a magic ring that controlled an element of nature (earth, wind, water, fire) that they would use in their valiant battle against pollution.  Then there was the fifth guy – his magic ring supposedly gave him the power of “Heart.”  As kids we always thought this guy was dorky – the other planeteers were all much more suave and cool.  In fact I was never really quite sure what “powers” the fifth guy ever really possessed – it seemed like his purpose was more or less to hang around and say cheesy, supportive one-liners to the other cooler heroes.  But now that I am older wiser, I’m realizing that the “Heart Guy” might have been on to something.  When it comes to any athletic endeavour – be it climbing or another sport, this power of heart may just be the most valuable resource out of them all.  

The Planeteers - the "Heart" guy is the unmuscular boy at the bottom

When I think back to my proudest sends, the ones that stick with me the most are the ones that, if I’m being honest with myself, somewhere in the back of my mind I think may have happened by accident.  Sure, its fun to send something hard, but many of my hardest projects ended with a redpoint run that was so well-rehearsed it almost felt like cheating.  In those instances, the journey itself was where the grunt work took place, and the actual send attempt was just the culminating reward.  For me a good example would be Slabster’s Lament, the same route that I broke my ankle on back in February.  By the time I worked through the physical and mental battles, it easily felt 3 letter grades easier because I had dissected every move down to a science.  In my opinion, the most prized sends are not the ones where every move is executed perfectly, but the ones where you have to fight tooth and nail every step of the way – the ones that cause you to involuntarily hold your breath as you replay the climb in your mind because you still think there’s an outside chance you might fall.  The same holds true for spectators, at least for me anyway – which climber is more fun to cheer for, and more exciting to watch…the one who looks effortless and has every move dialed, or the one that you are just sure is going to peel off at any moment?  

I think one of the major differences between these rehearsed versus ad-lib type sends lies in this mysterious power of heart.  I’ve realized that some days I have it, and some days I don’t.  When I’m feeling strong I don’t necessarily need it – I can rely on my strength and technique to get me through to the anchors without a fall.  These are perfect times to work hard routes that push my physical and mental limits, because I’ve got confidence in my ability to make the moves.  But at the end of a climbing trip, when I’m exhausted and my body is rebelling, sometimes “heart” is about the only thing I have going for me on my very last chance to pull a send out from my you-know-where before we pack up and go home.

We had to tap into the powers of heart on an epic day in Big Cottonwood Canyon several years ago. Can you find us? Hint: We're just getting started...

Can I summon it at will?  I wish.  If so, I most definitely would have called it up from the depths of my willpower long before the 3rd, 4th, and most certainly 5th one hang runs on Gangsta out in the Obed a couple of weeks ago.  It’s elusive, this mysterious power of heart.   Unfortunately it only comes in fleeting flashes of brilliance (or insanity, depending on how you look at it), where an overcooked body is able to latch that dyno, fight that barn door, or lock off on that nasty crimper against all odds.   I guess if it were able to be summoned at any given point everyone would have it.  And if everyone could have it, we’d all take it for granted, which would in effect cause it to lose all of its mystery and much of its power.  Though I do wish I could tap into it more, it makes those magical moments where I nab a send by the skin of my teeth that much more special.  And it gives me all the more reason to whoop and holler for my climbing partners when they eek out a crux sequence and I can tell from the ground by the look on their face that they’re just as surprised as everyone else that they made that move.

Even though we can’t bottle it and sell it, I’m sure many of you have experienced this power of heart in climbing, whether it be a specific route, or even something more general such as overcoming a fear of heights or falling.  So let’s take a moment to celebrate the unsung hero of the planeteer gang and what he brings to the table – when’s the last time you or someone you know flexed some mental muscles and put this heart power to action?

 

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