Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

Unveiling The Cragbaby Project!

Creating a Cragbaby.
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It’s here, its here!  Its finally here!  Those of you that have been reading for a while may remember “The Cragbaby Project.”  After learning about my then-new blog series “Creating a Cragbaby,” our professional photographer-turned-cinematographer friend Jan Balster had wanted to use our family as a lifestyle piece for his portfolio in hopes to attract more video gigs.   He wanted the documentary style film to capture the essence of an adventure-loving family outside doing what they love.  Jan shot footage of us on three different days – bouldering in Asheboro, roping up at Pilot Mountain, and an afternoon interview at our house.  The whole experience was eye-opening for me (I can’t believe all the footage and work that went into making this short, 5 minute film!).  It was amazing working with Jan, and I feel so blessed that we were able to be a part of this exciting project for him.  Evidently he didn’t need The Cragbaby Project as much as he thought he might…the release was delayed a good bit due to him getting an influx of paying gigs over the past few months, but regardless of the delay, we are excited that its finally here!

So without further adieu, here is The Cragbaby Project!!! (Don’t forget, you can make it full screen by clicking the symbol to the left of the word “Vimeo” at the bottom right of the video!)

Creating a Crag Baby from JB-Photo on Vimeo.

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On Choosing a Crag (Part 2)

Creating a Cragbaby. Hiking.
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“On Choosing a Crag (Part 1)” discussed some tips for choosing a great crag with a perfect approach.  This is the continuation of that post – applying those ideas to real life scenarios.  The following is a compilation of several baby and kid-friendly climbing areas that our family frequents throughout the Southeast.

Who wants to go exploring?!?

STARTER CRAGS –  From local jaunts to world-class rock, these areas are great first time crags suitable for the whole family, regardless of age.

  • Pilot Mountain, NC – Certainly not a destination crag, but easy access and short approaches make it a great first-time spot.
  • Sandrock, AL – the Alabama version of Pilot Mt, but even shorter approaches.
  • New River Gorge, WV (Junkyard, Bridge Buttress) – Short approaches on great rock.  Both are primarily trad areas that also have easy top access, so be prepared to fight off the crowds of top-ropers.
  • Red River Gorge, KY (Volunteer Wall at Pendergrass, *Roadside) – More great rock with an easy approach and several nice flat areas (*Its definitely worth noting that Roadside is currently closed at the moment, so until further notice DO NOT climb there…for more info check out this link)!
  • The Obed, TN (Lilly Bluffs) – The approach is moderately steep in some areas, but no scrambling is required.  The cliff base is wide and flat for the most part.

Keep in mind that starter crags like this are perfect for more than just small families – odds are you’ll be sharing ropes with boy scouts, meetup groups, and guiding services.  If you’re not in the mood to battle the crowds, consider going on a weekday for your first time out so that you can figure out the logistics without the added stress of searching for open routes.

Babies that arent yet mobile dont require much space to be happy!

THE NEXT STEP –  Chances are after you’ve gotten a few trips under your belt, you’ll have developed a system that works for your family, and you’ll feel more comfortable maneuvering the trails with your child in carrier.  You’ll probably be ready to expand your repertoire of climbing areas.  The following areas won’t be as crowded, but the trade off isa more difficult approach.

  • Red River Gorge, KY (Muir Valley) A long steep hike, but no scrambling is involved.  Lots of different walls within the same area so you can try to avoid crowds.  Much of the cliff base is flat.
  • New River Gorge, WV (Sandstonia) – Long hike that is strenuous and very steep in places, it can be especially treacherous when wet.  Some parts along the base have a lot of open space, but others are pretty narrow/rocky.
  • New River Gorge, WV (The Brain at Beauty Mountain) – A short hike with a very steep (only about 30 feet or so) initial descent, along with a very tame stream crossing…also keep an eye out for poison ivy.  The base is totally flat with plenty of room.

A few small rocks allow the wee ones to practice their climbing skills too!

READY FOR A CHALLENGE – The following are areas that are definitely not good choices for a first outing together as a family, or even for children/babies without much experience hiking or traveling in a backpack.  Our family really enjoys climbing in these areas, so we’ve gotten creative and found ways to make the approach safe.  (Don’t forget #5 of the Cragbaby’s Rules for the Ropes: Don’t be a Moron!)  If you want specifics about how we handled a particular area, let me know!

  • Summersville Lake, WV – Longish approach that is somewhat steep, but with fairly moderate terrain.  There is a small stream crossing, a bit of boulder hopping, as well as a 15 foot wooden ladder.  The area around the cliff base is flat in places but in others drops off into a lake with calm but really deep water (but it makes a nice spot for older kids and adults to cool off at the end of a hard day’s climbing!)
  • New River Gorge, WV (Endless Wall) – Both the Fern Point and Honeymooner’s entrances involve tall ladders.  I always gear up before descending, and shuffle 2 personal anchors as I go down the rungs.  The routes are spread out and crowds are usually not a problem.  There are a lot of flat areas around the base, but getting around requires some scrambling through boulder fields.
  • The Obed, TN (South Clear Creek) – The hike is long and steep, with a couple of 5th class moves.  There is one section at the base involving a traverse along a hand rail (Again, I gear up beforehand and anchor in as I go along).  Many parts of the cliff base are great for kiddos, especially the Stephen King Library.

Who needs "real" toys when you have ropes and trekking poles!

By no means is this list anywhere near complete – I didn’t want to bog down the list by ranking every single place we’ve ever  climbed with Cragbaby, nor did I refer to some of the lesser known smaller climbing areas that a lot of folks reading wouldn’t be familiar with.  I just stuck with the most obvious/well-known crags.  I also didn’t include any bouldering areas, but we have found that at the majority of the bouldering areas we’ve gone to with Cragbaby, we’ve been successful in finding safe terrain for him, in addition to great climbing for us.  I also only included areas in the Southeast, because that’s as far as we’ve road-tripped with Cragbaby…so far anyway!

Please feel free to add your own ideas in the comments section below to beef up the list a little bit, regardless of whether its about climbing areas in the Southeast, Northwest, or Central Asia!  I’d love to expand this list so that its a more complete resource!

 

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On Choosing a Crag (Part 1)

Creating a Cragbaby. Hiking.
2 Comments.

Who says you can only have fun while you're on the rocks? Make the "getting there" part fun too!

Everyone knows that not all crags are created equal – but the characteristics that make a climbing area perfect depend on what your climbing party is looking for. Who cares about the approach, you might say – don’t you just go where the climbing is good?!? It seems like a no-brainer for most folks…however since Cragbaby came along, we’ve realized that there is more to a great day than just great climbing. Here’s a list of the factors we consider when we are gearing up for a day out on the rocks.

Distance – Remember that short little legs tire out quickly!  If your little ones are hiking in under their own power, make sure you choose distances that are short enough to remain enjoyable.  Take breaks when you need to (its not the time to break any land speed records!) and don’t forget to bring plenty of snacks and water for along the way!  If the kiddos are getting to the crag via YOU (ie front carrier or backpack), the question is merely how far you want to hike with the added weight of a growing boy or girl.  However contrary to the majority of sedentary America, climbers are used to hiking in lots of heavy gear already, so for us distance is not really a factor as much as…

Long hikes can come in handy around naptime!

Terrain – Again, if your child is young enough to be in a carrier, then the “do-ability” of an approach is based on you – make sure you are comfortable with the amount of scrambling and hiking involved.  Research beforehand on whether or not there are any steeper fifth class sections on the hike that might require the use of a fixed line or ladder, or other hazards such as water crossings or scree slopes, and then decide if you can maneuver through those sections safely.  (You might have to get creative – we discovered that we can still do ladders safely by gearing up beforehand and anchoring in on the rungs)

Honeymooner's Ladders at Endless Wall, New River Gorge

Cliff Base – Remember once you get there you are staying there…probably all day.  Make sure that the base of the routes you want to climb provide ample room for all of your gear (which you will have 3 times more of than your non-kid partners!)  If you’ve got a baby who isn’t mobile yet, you’ll need to have enough flat, level ground to spread out a blanket for naps and diaper changes.  For toddlers and older children, you’ll need an even bigger area to make exploration safe.  Steer clear of steep slopes and drop-offs, poison ivy and thorns, as well as rocky areas. (Although kid-sized boulders are great entertainment for older kids to practice what the grown-ups are doing, they can be difficult to maneuver around for early walkers.)

 

Be prepared for conditions to change throughout the day...

Crowd Control – “Party Crags” with large groups of (often loud) climbers make it hard for little tykes to get some midday shut-eye, which in turn makes it a lot harder on everyone involved.  Look for crags that get less traffic or have plenty of routes to accomodate lots of folks.

Also don’t forget that usually what (and who) hikes down must hike up, and vice versa.  Some approaches are a lot more difficult on the way out, so be sure to factor that in when your planning your day (it might not be wise to try and squeeze in one more climb if you’re wanting to make it out by dark).

But probably the most important thing to remember is that all of these factors are relative to your own ability/comfort level, as well as the temperament and age of your child.  Be aware of both you and your child’s limits, and don’t do anything stupid that lands you both in an unsafe situation.

***You might be wondering why this post is labelled as “Part 1.”  That’s because the next post will continue along this theme with recommendations on specific crags, so click here to check out “On Choosing a Crag (Part 2)***

 

I'll show ya my favorite crags next time guys!

 

 

 

 

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Sentimental Snapshots: Hoop Dreams

Sentimental Snapshots.
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Its “Name that Caption” time again everyone!  First things first – the award for last week’s best caption goes to Nina Arnold, a fellow Firefly Sportess athlete.   Once again I don’t have anything to give as a prize, although I will say that I’m looking into having “Cragmama” logo stickers made…but back to today’s photograph.  This one is a super cute shot of a little guy that I’m especially fond of.

This was taken last weekend at C’s grandparent’s house.  A bunch of family had flown in for a wedding shower (congrats to C’s Uncle Dave and Aunt Allyssa!) and we were all outside enjoying the afternoon.  The big boys had been shooting hoops while C and his cousin Eli looked on.   Cragbaby thought basketball sure did look like fun, and after everyone else had gone inside, he decided to give it a whirl.  Although he had a blast trying (and we had a blast watching him try!) he’s no Michael Jordan…yet.

What do you think?  NAME THAT CAPTION!!!

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Memorial Day Madness at Grayson Highlands

Other.
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Steve working Arrowhead Arete (V3)

After spending the first part of the weekend hanging out with family, we met up with some friends late Sunday morning up at Grayson Highlands State Park for some bouldering fun.  It was the first time we’d been back to GHSP since last fall, and I’d almost forgotten what a spectacular setting it is!  The weather was pretty warm both days, but I’m fairly certain cooler than the majority of climbing areas in the Southeast.

Cragbaby hanging with Melissa and Buddy

Our first day consisted of a high volume of moderates.  We started out at the Picnic/Rock House Area before ending up at the Cap-Gun Boulder in the Boneyard –

Fortune 500  (V0)
Relish the Ride  (V1)
Relish Direct  (V1)
Relish Arete  (V2)
Meatloaf  (V1+)
Indian Outlaw (V3) – There’s a move down low that feels pretty stout for the grade that kept shutting me down last fall.  I was psyched that it went down after only a few tries this time.
Arrowhead Arete (V3) – Steve, Aaron, and I cleaned off the fin around the side of the Rock House Boulder, and after a few unsuccessful flailings on a cruxy crossover move, I was able to get my beta straight and nab the first ascent!

Steve nailing the big move on Cap-Gun (V2)

Cap-Gun (V2) – So fun I had to take another lap – two huge moves to two great holds with a solid but exciting topout!
Cap-Gun Slab (V0) – Several easy but fun lines to be had here, with one run and jump type problem reminiscent of the Fun-Filled Boulder at Rumbling Bald.
President’s Problem (V3) – A big ‘ole crank off a left heel to a balancey topout that is made ridiculously easier with the correct foot placement Another classic that deserved more than one lap!

Its a rough life, being a Cragbaby...

Not a day of hard projecting by any means, but still loads of fun and merriment were had by all.  We wrapped up our day with dinner at The Log House, a greasy spoon filled with great local culture and surprisingly tasty food!  On our way back into camp we were stopped by a ranger because there were 5 cows that were on the loose, running up and down the road.  The comedy that ensued was worth the few minutes delay as we watched two rangers who were obviously not that comfortable with livestock trying to herd the obviously flustered bovines back into the confines of the fence.

The Great Cow Debacle

After warming up on some of the tall slabs by our campground, our crew spent the next day exploring the Boneyard.  The one bad thing about climbing in a less-developed area is that there are no established trails…we battled our way up a steep hillside through stinging nettle and poison ivy all day, stopping at various boulders along the way.  Our destination was the Luminary Boulder, an impressive larger-than-life type boulder almost as tall as it is wide, serenely tucked away high on the hillside, a long and hard bushwhack from the road.

Cannonade (V2) Photo: Dan Brayack

Robot Love (V0) – Really nice moves on crimpy flakes.  The stream running underneath the boulder adds to the excitement. After stopping for Aaron to point out some lines on some other boulders, we ran into some other climbers, one of whom was professional photographer Dan Brayack, who is doing all the photography and layout for the upcoming guidebook.  He set up shop over at the Belgrano Blade to shoot some of everyone climbing on this amazing inclined roof.
Cannonnade (V2) – An aesthetic line with a topout that looks a lot more intimidating than it actually was.
Billy Budd (V4) – After numerous tries, came heartbreakingly close to sending, but all I came away with was a nasty bleeding flapper on my ring finger.  Next time. 🙂

Matt B. working the crimps down low on Billy Budd (V4) Photo: Dan Brayack

Captain Hook (V1)
 Cows on the Run (V1) – I couldn’t believe that the most obvious line on the boulder hadn’t been touched yet – a diagonal hand crack trending up and right along the entire span of the boulder, probably about 50 feet.  I decided to give it a go.  The crux is getting established in the crack, then the higher you get, the easier the terrain is.   I chose the name based on the shenanigans with the cows the night before, and because taking several laps on it would be a great way to warm up both body and mind for some of the other problems on the wall.
Welcome Home (V1) – TALL but all the harder moves are down low.
Dances with Wolves (V2/3) – Harder and taller than its neighbor to the left, but again, the business is at the start.

Matt P. about to nail the crux on Billy Budd (V4) Photo: Dan Brayack

One of the best parts about this area is its yet to be achieved potential, with scores of rock just waiting to be explored, often only a few minutes away from the road or trail! Its been really exciting to be a part of all of the development of this area, even though the role I’ve played has only been a minor one.  I’m really looking forward to next year when the guidebook will be published – I was able to get a glimpse at some of the preliminary pages, and it looks stellar!  Until then, Aaron has put in a lot of time and effort as an Administrator over at Mountain Project, so if your interested in checking out the area and want some beta, clicking here is a great place to start!

First ascent of Cows on the Run

Lucky for us Dan was around to take some pictures, because the rest of us didn’t do so hot at taking the camera out, but if you wanna see what we got, click here.

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN