Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

In Memory of Eric Metcalf…

Climbing. Reflections.
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This post was intended to be a trip report from our adventures at Moore’s Wall this past Sunday, but in light of the events that transpired after we left, the usual recounting of the routes we climbed hardly seemed relevant.  The North Carolina climbing community suffered a tragic loss Sunday evening.  Eric Metcalf, a 19 year old from Cary, NC, fell over 250 feet to his death in a rappelling accident in the Sentinel Buttress area of Moore’s Wall.  A lot of the details are still unknown, but I felt led to share my perspective.  My husband, son, and a friend of mine climbed at the North End of Moore’s on Sunday.  It was hot, and we’d been in Winston-Salem with family since Friday, so we cut our day short and got back to the car around 5:30.  A friend of mine works in the ER at the hospital closest to the crag, and around 8:00 one of my climbing partners got a text from her.  She said that she had just gotten word that paramedics were bringing in a young man who had fallen at Moore’s.  She had known that we were out there and was checking in to make sure that we were all okay.  She texted us again about 30 minutes later, telling us that he was pronounced dead on the scene.  

I didn’t find out who the climber was until Tuesday morning.  I recognized the name and was very saddened to realize that I did indeed know this young man.  I used to see him all the time at Triangle Rock Club back when we lived in Raleigh.  He was just in high-school back then, and I didn’t know him well, but enough to always say hi and make small talk.  In fact I have a vivid memory of a humorous exchange between he and I at one point when I was very pregnant with C.  It was getting near the end and the least bit of activity left me wildly out of breath.  I remember being lowered down from a route (probably one of the token vertical routes that I’d had memorized for weeks).  My feet touched the ground and I just stood there for a minute trying to catch my breath, when I looked up and saw Eric with a couple of his friends standing nearby.  This must have been quite a sight, as it’s not like the gym was overrun with many giant-bellied ladies still trying to climb. To be honest I felt a bit ridiculous in front of this high school kid, feeling rather vulnerable as I struggled with the logistics of bending down to take off my climbing shoes.   But to his credit, he was tactful enough to resist any chuckles or giggles.  Instead he just smiled at me and said, “That’s awesome,” and went back to bouldering with his buddies.  I’m not sure why that memory sticks out in my mind.  I’d completely forgotten about it until yesterday.  But regardless, it seemed an appropriate story to share at this time.

Even though I didn’t know Eric very well, there are many, many people who not only knew him well, but I’m sure loved him fiercely.  As I sat beside my son’s crib on Sunday night, holding his hand while he fell asleep, I couldn’t help but think about Eric’s mother and the fact that she’ll never get to hold her son’s hand again.  My heart aches for this boy’s family and friends.  This is truly a tragic event, and it’s been a struggle to organize my thoughts into a succinct post.  

Although it hasn’t been confirmed, as of right now it is believed that Eric failed to clip both strands of rope into his rappel device.  If this is true then that means this accident would have never happened had Eric test-weighted the rope to double-check the system before coming off of his personal anchor.  The idea that this tragedy was something that was completely preventable by a routine safety check that should be second nature to experienced climbers is heart-wrenching, to say the least.  For those of us that are out on the rock every weekend, it’s easy to forget that rock climbing is a sport where certain mistakes are not allowed, not even once.  Please, please, please don’t cut corners when it comes to safety, and don’t allow your climbing partners to do so either.

But rather than ending with a hollow word about safety, I’d prefer to let this post finish on a more positive note.  I know that many of you who are reading this knew Eric Metcalf in one capacity or another, so I’d like to ask that if you have a story/tribute to share in his memory, that you do so in the comment thread.  Despite the tragic circumstances surrounding his death, Eric was full of life, and was a bright spot in this world to many.  He deserves to be remembered as such…

And for those interested, here’s a link to an article in the Raleigh News and Observer, as well as 2 links showing Eric and two of his life’s passions – climbing and music.  There will be a memorial service on Sunday morning at 10:00 am at Triangle Rock Club.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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New Athleta Store in Durham (aka Adventures in Girliness!)

In the News.
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 Even though we’ve been in Charlotte for over a year now, folks still regularly ask me if we miss Raleigh.  My answer is usually….”Nah.”  Aside from several friends (most of whom I still keep in touch with) and a handful of local haunts, Charlotte seems to have everything that the Triangle area had to offer, and more.  Until now…I had heard rumors of a new Athleta store opening up at the Streets of Southpoints mall in Durham (just 20 minutes from our old digs!), and I was delighted when they contacted me about participating in a special VIP “sneak preview” event at the new store on the evening before the official opening.  

I didn’t really know what to expect at the event, as my instructions were to show up at the store around 5:00 decked out in my favorite Athleta attire.  Ironically, choosing my outfit was probably the hardest part of my day.  As a rock climbing mama of a snuggly but messy toddler, taking more than 30 seconds to throw on some clothes and a smattering of make-up is a luxury usually reserved for once a week when we go to church, so it felt odd to get all fixed up and then hop in the car for a couple of hours.  Thankfully my hubby (aka Super-Daddoo) was able to rearrange his schedule so that he worked from home that day, which meant that I could leave at naptime – plenty of time to make it to Durham with enough time to visit an old friend first (our friendship is old…she is not.  :)).  

 I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little nervous before the event, especially since I really had no clue what was going on, but from the minute I walked through the door I felt at ease, and all the nerves were replaced by feelings of anticipation and excitement.  The first person I made eye contact with also happened to be one of the ladies in charge, and surprisingly, she recognized me as one of the sponsored athletes (little did I know that this would soon be a theme of the night – which I found both funny and overwhelming!)  Anyway, Kim, Rachel, and the rest of the Athleta ladies made sure I was well-taken care of.  I got a grand tour of the store, got to meet a lot of really nice people – and lo and behold, I got to SHOP!  Now ordinarily, I’m not really the shopping type.  As I mentioned before, when it comes to apparel I usually don’t have the time, energy, and not to mention money.  It’s not that I hate shopping, just that there’s always something else I’d rather do, so updating my wardrobe tends to be pretty low on the priority list (which is just one reason why I’m thankful that the online shopping experience at Athleta is so easy – otherwise I’d be stuck in the same 5 year old climbing tanks and capris!)  

But my evening with Athleta reminded me that despite the sometimes chaotic and tomboy exterior, it’s fun to feel like a girl sometimes.  And I must also add that shopping at Athleta was a far cry from my typical shopping experience.  Not only was it easier to maneuver around the store without a Cragbaby glued to my hips, but the sales staff even took my items back to the fitting room for me so that I could be hands free while I finished perusing (or while I sampled the chocolate-covered strawberries that kept appearing on trays near me…)  I did have to wait in line for a fitting room, but I had fun chatting it up with the employees and other women who were at the event as well.  The waiting also gave me a chance to finish up that fresh fruit kebab and glass of wine that I’d been  carrying around while I ate my strawberries…When it was my turn for a fitting room, the staff wrote my name on a chalkboard that was beside my door – this not only made communication much easier when it came to fetching different sizes/colors, but also added a personal touch.  When I was done with the fitting room I made one more pass around the store to make sure I hadn’t missed anything, but not before grabbing yet another delectable dessert from the one of the trays – this time a caramel-covered treat whose insides exploded with creamy nougat as soon as I put it in my mouth.  At this point I figured I’d done enough damage to my wallet as well as my waistline so I headed to the check out table.  I had some exchanges to make, and that process was very smooth, even though my items had been purchased online rather than in the store.  There were no questions asked about the in-store discount perk I get as a sponsored athlete (I’d never set foot in an Athleta store before, so this process was new for both me as well as the employees!)  

My new hat!

  

Although I’m not the only one that digs it!

Overall I came away with quite a haul – I filled in some gaps in my closet, and even decided on a whim to channel my inner country girl and purchase a rather un-Cragmama-like hat.  But more than just the clothes, the experience itself was fun, and it definitely made me wish there was a store closer to me!  Even though it was fun to play VIP for an evening, it didn’t seem like the service I was getting was any different than what anyone else would get on any given day – minus the amazing hors d’oeuvres of course!  So girls in the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area, you all are lucky ladies indeed!  If you’re looking for an air-conditioned way to beat the heat this weekend, here’s my advice – head to the new Athleta store, buy a cute bathingsuit that will STAY PUT, and go directly to the pool to practice your cannonballs!

 

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Little Wilson – A Mid-Summer Cragger’s Dream

Climbing. North Carolina.
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Best route on the wall – Code 3 (5.11a)

So after spending the past two (unseasonably mild) weekends catching up around the house and enjoying time with family, the heat was back in full force this weekend.  Our original plan was for the New River Gorge, but with temps hovering at 100 and humidity almost as high, no one was psyched on sleeping in a tent in a pool of sweat.  We instead opted for a day trip to a shady little crag off the beaten path in the western part of the state – Little Wilson.  This was actually our first time going there.  We actually attempted to go there once several years ago, but got lost and gave up pretty quickly.  Thanks to Mike Grimm from Misty Mountain, there’s now a nifty little guide called the High Country Cragger that documents this area.  

It’s a solid 20-30 minute hike that weaves over and under a massive sea of roots and rhododendron tunnels – the way in is entirely downhill, and pretty steep in some sections.  This of course means that the tail end of the day ends up being quite the grunt-fest.  By now the trail is pretty worn down, but I can’t imagine how the first ascensionists ever found this place!   This cliffline is short and faces to the west, and there is a picturesque mountain stream that flows parallel to the base of the cliff.  The shade from the trees and sun aspect of the cliff coupled with the refreshing breezes coming off the water made this place the perfect haven to escape the suffocating 106 degree heat waiting for us back home.  The rock itself is pretty interesting looking – blocky and angular in shape, with lots of sharp features and deeply incut edges – and pretty steep!  For such a small area, there’s a pretty wide range of grades (5.8 – 5.12+), so it’s a good option for groups with varying skill levels. The stream widens into a little wading pool at one point, so three guesses as to where Cragbaby spent his entire day!

Cragbaby with an endless array of rocks to throw (and a 10 pound sopping wet diaper!)

Here’s what our climbing day looked like:

Climb With a View (5.10b):  Nice introduction the the area.  The right  combination of pumpy and technical to keep things interesting!
Tiny Gun (5.11a):  Easy climbing to a chain that was pretty reachy to hang the draw on.  The first time up I missed the hidden crimp rail until I was right on top of it, and by then I was so fried from fiddling with the chain clip that I couldn’t make the move.  Pulled the rope and sent next go.
Code 3 (5.11a):  Definitely the best route on the wall.  No well-defined crux, just a sustained pump factor to manage throughout.  Very cool and exposed finish!
First Encounter (5.10d):  This line takes the prize of most unique route of the day, and for that reason, was probably my favorite.  It followed a left-angling flake/ramp to a funky, technical crux, and finished by pulling a surprisingly hard-to-read roof that was mighty darn hot in the sun.

All in all it was a nice, low-key kinda day.  Towards the end of the day I hopped on a couple of .12’s (Fire Ants and Aqualung), but realized pretty quickly that the heat had drained any semblance of motivation that I had to do any hard moves, so my efforts were rather lackluster.  It was great to explore a new crag though, especially one so close to home, although the burly hike and relatively small amount of climbs Little Wilson has to offer will probably keep it from earning a spot as a “regular” on the crag rotations.  A couple hours later and a few thousand feet lower, we were back underneath the smothering blanket known as summer in the Piedmont, counting down the days til we can gain some altitude out west at the end of July!

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TRANGO Cinch – A Belayer’s Best Friend

Gear Reviews.
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So let’s say hypothetically that your favorite climbing partner’s birthday was coming up, and you were looking for the perfect gift to give to the person that holds your life in their hands week after week.  You could probably be successful with the token REI gift card or treat them to a post-climbing feast – climbers generally aren’t that hard to please.  But if you wanted to be a little more selfish efficient in your gift-giving, you would do well to consider the TRANGO Cinch, as odds are it’ll make you both happy.

 Why your belayer will like it…

– Feeds like a dream.
– Compact and lightweight.
– Fits a wide range of rope sizes.
– Choice of 4 sexy colors  

Why YOU will like it…

– Cheaper than the Grigri.
– It’s easy to feed out as much rope as needed while still keeping the brake hand on.
– Repeated use won’t make obnoxious twists and kinks in your rope. 

Still need convincing?

When lead-belaying, the Cinch feeds out so smoothly that the first few times I used it, I had to triple and quadruple-check to make sure it was set up correctly.  There’s no herky-jerkies, just a steady pay out of rope as fast as I need it.  It’s small and weighs 20% less than the Grigri, so I don’t even mind when I accidentally take it up with me when its my turn to climb.  It seems like ropes are getting skinnier and skinnier these days, so it’s great that Trango has found an innovative design that can accommodate the smaller cords.  One of the best parts, however, is that after a long day on the rock, I can neatly flake my rope back into the pack without any of those annoying kinks and twists as with other auto-locking devices.  

I’ve heard a lot of people say that a major drawback to the Cinch is when the climber is working out the moves on a route, and therefore weighting and unweighting the rope in quick succession.  And initially I agreed.  I found that when my climber said, “Okay, on me,” it sometimes took me a couple of extra seconds to “release” them.  As it turns out I just needed to change my hand position slightly.  Now that I’ve gotten accustomed to the Cinch, I don’t think a hangdog situation is any harder to manage with a Cinch than with a GriGri – it’s just different, and there’s a slight learning curve that most intelligent individuals can figure out pretty quickly.

I haven’t tried the Cinch in a multi-pitch situation yet, mostly because with a toddler on the ground, those opportunities don’t present themselves that often, but I do know several folks that are big Cinch fans even for big walls.  As with a Grigri, you can only thread one strand through the device at a time, so unless you’re simul-rapping, you still have to carry an ATC – so I guess the biggest factor to consider in that situation is how much gear you want to carry up with you.  

My Stance on Trad

It is true that any auto-locking device will put more force on your gear and give a “harder” catch, and for that reason many swear only by an ATC when it comes to trad climbing.  But for me personally, as a small woman that is outweighed by all my climbing partners, and by my husband even twice as much, almost all of my catches take me off the ground, leaving me no choice but to provide a soft catch.  So long as the rock quality is good and the gear is not ridiculously small (and thereby not rated at full strength in a fall), I think having an assisted brake for when I get launched sky high catching a whipper is more valuable than the slight amount of force shaved off with a non-auto-locking device.  Less impact on good gear is a moot point if the belayer gets slammed into the wall and loses their brake hand.  

The Bottom Line

 In the interest of full disclosure I received my Cinch free of charge, but that didn’t affect this review in the least.  I had plenty of belay devices already and certainly didn’t “need” another.  I wholeheartedly believe that the Cinch is an excellent choice for all types of climbing, and in my opinion, is the best auto-locking device on the market right now.  Not only does it perform better than its competition, but its lighter AND cheaper – so to me the choice is obvious!   As another disclaimer, the Cinch (or any other belay device for that matter) will never replace an attentive and experienced belayer – just because the word “auto” is in there doesn’t mean your belayer can shift to auto-pilot, so choose both your belay device AND belayer wisely!  Who else loves (or hates) a Cinch?  Feel free to put in your two cents!

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Sentimental Snapshots: A Rainbow of Obstacles (and a GIVEAWAY from Clif)

Sentimental Snapshots.
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The other day Cragbaby and I enjoyed a beautiful, sunny morning at Belle Johnston Park.  Though technically in Pineville, not Charlotte, it’s only 15 minutes or so from our house, and is well worth the drive for a morning’s worth of playground fun.  What I like about this park is that it seems to have been designed for multi-generational enjoyment, not just the wee folk.  In addition to the many playgrounds, giant sand pit, swing sets, and riding toys situated within the acreage of open green space, there are porch swings and benches scattered about, perfect for outdoor lovers of all ages to relax and take in all the surrounding fun, all against a backdrop of a beautiful duck pond complete with a walking path around it.  

Cragbaby’s favorite part of the park of late is the “rainbow tires.” It’s almost a bit odd, and I often wonder what gave the playground architects the idea to place some giant metal tire halves buried in the sand, but C loves it. It’s a good kinesthetic lesson in prepositions, actually. Some days we go under (well, we meaning C, I don’t fit too well…don’t ask me how I know). We also go around, through, across, and on, but C seems to have the most fun when he gets to go over (and all the climbers nodded their heads in agreement.).

 I chose this picture for today for two reasons.  First off, it shows C’s stellar climbing technique – if only somebody had taught me to watch my footwork so carefully at that age!  But secondly, I feel like this picture is kind of a metaphor for life.  It’s full of ups and downs.   As soon as C gets to the top of one obstacle, he’s going to be faced with another – and another, and another.  But thankfully he seems to be enjoying the process – and I’m not sure about you, but that’s a concept that I often forget!  What ordinary happenings have you learned  an extraordinary lesson from recently?  Leave a comment, and you’ll be entered to win yet another great giveaway from my friends at Clif bar – this time a brand new flavor of crispy Z-bar – cookies and cream!  (I must say this is my new hands down favorite of all the Clif Kids flavors…)  The giveaway will run until Saturday night, when one lucky winner will be chosen randomly to win an entire case of crispy Z-bar goodness!  Best of luck!

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN