Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

The Smoo(oooooo)th Quickdraw from TRANGO

Trango has a new quickdraw called the “Smooth Quickdraw.”  To be honest, my initial thought was that their marketing department must not have been trying very hard. I mean, when you call something “smooth,” all you’re really saying is that said object has a continuous, even surface, free of bumps or ridges, right? If that’s our working definition, then every quickdraw I’ve ever owned would be considered “smooth.” It seemed like Trango’s naming system was similar to those people that name boulder problems based on some obvious, over-used characteristic (“The Arete,” “The Egg,”, or “Big Crack.”)  Descriptive, yes.  Creative, not so much.  But as we all know, first impressions don’t always stick.

My old draws were in desperate need of replacing, so of course I was psyched that they gave me a whole new set – but between you and me I didn’t really expect to notice a huge difference.  Quickdraws are quickdraws, right?  Wrong.  I became a believer in the power of “smooth” from the very first clip.  Here’s why… (and by the way, the following is my honest, unbiased opinion, even though the gear was free.)

1.  Dogbone – The dogbones are beefy and will not twist no matter what.  If you like to use a pair of quickdraws as anchors, the thick webbing will definitely inspire confidence.  The added sturdiness can even give me an extra inch or so when hanging draws from a reachy stance.  The webbing is sewn down tight against the bent gate side, so the biner will not flip, but it can still come out pretty easily if I need to extend a draw here or there.

2.  Carabiners – The Smooth Quickdraws can come in any combination of carabiners – straight/bent, straight/wire, or wire/wire.  I chose the straight/bent option.  I’ve been really happy with how well the straight gate biner works with my stick clip, and the notchless design prevents any sort of snagging.  I was also pleassantly surprised with how lightweight this set up was.

3.  Action – The action on these babies is superb!  I am not exaggerating when I say that every single person that has climbed on these draws since I’ve gotten them has commented on how “smooth” they are to clip.  Seriously.  Nine times out of ten they really do use the word “smooth”…  When I first got them, my climbing partners and I would sit around and idly fondle the gates while we watched climbing videos.  Even Cragbaby turned into a fan, and he can often be found sitting in a pile of them at the base of the cliff saying “kik-drah.” (quickdraw…)

4.  Reliability – When I’m taking a redpoint run on a project or battling for an onsight, the last thing I want to worry about is bobbling a clip.  These draws are heavy enough to resist flopping around under a roof, but lightweight enough that they don’t hold me back during an overhanging pumpfest where every ounce seems to matter.

 

Rigorous testing from the whole family…

 

In my opinion, the only thing keeping this quickdraw from being labelled as perfect is that the dogbones are only available in one size, but that’s such a minor issue that it’s hardly worth mentioning.  I would still wholeheartedly recommend these to anyone looking for a quality set of draws that won’t break your budget.  In fact, in doing my research for this review, I stumbled upon a definition on the Urban Dictionary that seemed far more accurate for the word “smooth” in reference to these quickdraws.

Smooth: completing a task with such grace and fluidity that the onlooker will lose appreciation for how difficul ta task it really was.

That’s quite a statement, I know.  But using the Trango Smooth’s on your next project may very well allow you to do just that (that coupled with having all the moves dialed in, of course…)  Now that I’ve sampled these superior quickdraws, I think the marketing guys may have been more on track than I initially thought.  The only question now is why they didn’t spell their product name with a few extra “o’s” – Smooooooth (cue dramatic eyebrows and sexy jazz music).


 

 

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The Art of Projecting (Continued)…

Last week I went into detail about the art of projecting a route, and included the perspectives of three of my climbing friends who were also on the quest for a meaningful send.  Well, our crew reconvened again, same time, same place, this past weekend, each of us ready for a rematch with our own personal nemeses.  Here’s how we fared…

Steve on his send!

OVERHANGING HANGOVER (5.11b)
SteveI got right down to business and warmed up on my project.  I was feeling a little jittery before starting but once I got going I was locked in and felt really strong.  The lower section went smoothly.  I took my time clipping the crux bolt to get focused and get a little energy back in my forearms.  I executed my crux beta quickly and precisely, and finished up the final moves without any issues.  Over the past 4 years I’ve tried this route 12 times, and half of those were on lead beginning last fall.  I’m excited that this went down with ease for me, and it was especially cool to look back at my notes to see how much progress I’ve made, considering that when I first got on it, I had to be hauled through a lot of the moves!  This route showed me how much easier a route can be when I have the moves dialed – this time it felt a full number grade easier.  I can definitely see the benefit in rehearsing the moves in my mind beforehand, as well as taking the time to develop muscle memory for hard sequences.  I feel more confident in my abilities now that this route is checked off.

Aaron It’s funny how you can think you have all the beta figured out but quickly realize after that you don’t actually. My first run of the day was re-figuring out what I had done last weekend. My second run was figuring out that the more dynamic move that I was making last weekend was not going to work when I was coming in to the crux a little pumped. I made adjustments to my sequence, and worked the crux with some new beta that I felt more comfortable with. Before the third go, I told myself that this was it, and I would move on to something different afterwards regardless of the outcome. It was my best go yet, and I even pulled the crux clean…but then I popped off on the easier stuff. It felt good to see some tangible improvement, but I will have to come back for the redpoint a different weekend, which won’t be in the near future. I thought I would send it, but I also did not plan on having to adjust my beta. Its funny how one weekend something works and the next it feels weird and improbable.

BLIND PROPHET (5.12b)
EricaMy primarily goal for the day was to be able to actually clip the chains this time, rather than letting exhaustion get the better of me at the very last move.  I tried 3 times, and each time I fell at the crux, but finished the route pretty easily.  My 3rd go was the best – fell mid-crux, then immediately got back on and finished the route without resting.  A one-hang is definitely really good progress for me.  Most importantly, I realized that the key to making the entire route go all hinges on my ability to precisely latch the upper slopey crimp at the crux.  If I hit it right, I can use it, if I hit it wrong, I peel right off.  The problem is that by the time I get up to that point, I’m feeling the pump, so I’m a little more desperate and end up throwing for the hold, which means my odds of hitting it right are lower than they are after I’ve rested, and can reach up to it static.  My last try I wedged my entire arm in the last horizontal before the crux in an attempt to get a weird armbar/chicken wing type rest.  I’m not sure that “rest” is the best word to use, as it was’nt restful for the majority of my body (and I’ve got the bruises on the back of my right arm to prove it), but my plan next time is to stall out in that position long enough to shake out my fingers and forearms for one last move.  I am hoping I’ll get one more crack at it in the next few weeks before the weather gets hot.

BLACK AND BLUE VELVET 5.13a/b
BennettWell, I gave my project three attempts.  Each time I tried, I found difficulty in a different section of the route, which is actually uncommon for me.  Typically I have trouble in a very specific spot on a route but this time was different.  The first attempt I slipped off of a slick hold about half way up and realized that the conditions (heat and humidity) might make for a hard send.  On my second try, I ended up resting on the rope before the final crux; I was much too tired to get into the crux.  On the final attempt, I was able to engage the upper crux but didn’t have the energy to finish it.  I think that the route will finally go when there is a good blend of proper conditions, feeling fresh, and having the moves in the lower section worked out in a more methodical manner.  I might try the route one more time this weekend, but more than likely it’s going to be tabled until the Fall when the humidity and heat are lower.  Good friction on the rock for both feet and fingers is critical and higher humidity and heat often hamper this.

"I'm a big boy guys."

 

So there you have it folks – another day of work, and still 3 out of the 4 of us walked away empty-handed, although all of us are closer to our goal.  A big congratulations to hubby Steve Lineberry for sending his first 5.11!  And I have reason to be proud of both of my boys, since Cragbaby deserves a shout-out of his own – he hiked all the way from the base of the routes at the Amphitheater, up the gully, and along the summit trail all the way to the parking lot!  He needed a boost here and there in the scrambly section at the top of the gully, and he had slowed down considerably by the end, but he had a perma-grin glued to this face the entire time.  My guess is that C was proud of his Daddy, and wanted to show everyone that he could do big boy things too!

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Moms: Endurance Athletes, Superheroes, and More (plus a GIVEAWAY from CLIF!)

What does it mean to be a mom?  Obviously that’s a question that runs deeper that one little blog entry.  But considering that this coming weekend is Mother’s Day, I thought it would be fun to post up a few light-hearted job titles acquired by moms everywhere.  (Let this also serve as a reminder for the forgetful folks out there to make “Call your Mommy” number 1 on your to do list for Sunday…)  As you read, be thinking of something to add to the list for a chance to win a chocolate-themed prize pack from my good friends at CLIF!

Here's me with MY Mommy (who is now known as Ga Ga), circa 1982.

 SUPERHERO – Moms have special healing powers in their kisses to make even the baddest of boo boos feel better. 

SHORT ORDER COOK – All moms have their specialties.  I was reminded of this just recently with a creamy mac n cheese dinner at my own mom’s house the other day.

SCIENTISTS – Moms are really good at answering important questions about how stuff works.  Things like “Where does the sun go at night?”, “Why do flowers smell pretty?”, and of course the dreaded, “Where do babies come from?”

THERAPIST – What middle-school girl hasn’t gotten the following sage advice from their all-knowing mom who doesn’t need a degree in psychology to say – “Those boys tease you because they like you.” 

POLICE OFFICERS – Moms are there “to protect and to serve.”  They also aren’t afraid to regulate when appropriate.

CHAUFFEUR – I shudder at the thought of how many miles my mom logged in the car driving me to and from volleyball tournaments, softball practice, baksetball games, and youth group during my teenage years. 

This little guy is what makes all the hard work worth it!

While it’s true that moms wear many different titles throughout their years (obviously my job description to my 2 year old will be different in 20 years), the most accurate, all-inclusive title that I could come up with with was that of ENDURANCE ATHLETE, defined as someone that particpates in activities involving physical exertion and mental stamina for long periods of time.  When most people think of endurance athletes, they probably picture distance runners, triathletes, or maybe even mountaineers.  Though I’m sure the above definition was written with the world of sports in mind, it sure does sound like a mom to me…Why?

Moms work hard. Whether they work from home, at home, or on a job site, their work is never finished, unlike most endurance athletes who train towards a peak season before taking time off. Being pregnant? It’s hard. Giving birth? It hurts. And that’s just the beginning. Moms routinely put up with physical hardship and mental stresses on a daily basis without batting an eye. In the early years, nighttime nursing marathons, regular battles with chubby legs and carseat straps, balancing 8 bags of groceries with a toddler on your hip, snuggling cheek to cheek with a fever-ridden child that wants to kiss your face with his barf breath – that’s all par for the course, as is getting kicked in the face when you try to lay down and your toddler confuses down time with wrestle-mania time… Then gradually comes the day when you realize that despite all of your efforts to slow the clock, your baby is now a little boy, then a big boy, then heaven forbid a teenager, and eventually a full-grown man that will be a Daddy himself someday!

The bottom line is that moms are in it for the long haul.  We may not be perfect, but we try our best.  And we love like something fierce.   So in honor of Mother’s Day, here’s your chance to not only pay tribute to YOUR mom, but also enter to win a special Mother’s Day Goody Box from CLIF!  All you have to do is post a comment – highlighting one of the many job titles that YOUR mom acquired throughout your childhood and beyond!  The contest will run through 7 pm on Sunday night, where a winner will randomly be chosen.  Best of luck and happy Mother’s Day!!!

 

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Indoor Training Tips: Triple Intervals

The Route-Setting Apprentice

I’ll be the first to admit, it’s hard to get in a good (and efficient) workout at the climbing gym with Cragbaby flitting around like the social butterfly that he is.  The days when we could time our gym time with a nap in a stroller are long gone, as are the days when we could barricade C with crash pads under an overhang.  To be honest, I’ve been pretty indifferent towards the climbing gym for the past year or so.  Yeah it’s a fun place to go, but out of the 4-6 hours that I spend there every week, how much am I really accomplishing?  Rotating around between climbing, belaying, and running around after Cragbaby – a lot of times it seemed like more trouble than it was worth, and I would end the session feeling frazzled and like I had hardly worked out at all.  Ironically, my perspective changed (and so did my workouts!) during my 6 weeks in a cage boot.  I would mostly hangboard while hubby roped up or bouldered with a partner.  Each hangboard set would take about 10 minutes, and often times C would let me hangboard while he played beside me with wrenches and brushes on a crashpad.  Three hangboard sets as well as a few token boot-leg laps up the steep wall and my forearms were toast.  After 6 weeks I was boot-free and bored to tears with the hangboard, so my husband and I went back to our rotations with a third person (which had to involve a rope since I wasn’t cleared to boulder yet). 

Cragbaby running laps up the down climb for his interval.

 As excited as I was to be able to climb with two feet again, I was disappointed that my workouts began feeling inefficient again.  If I flashed a route first try, it meant 2-3 minutes of climb time before going right back to either belaying or watching C for another 15-20 minutes.  I felt bad “working” a route because it made me feel like I was eating into my partners’ climb time.  So our household started brainstorming about different training ideas, and came up with a pretty good concept that seems to be working out pretty well.

Here’s what we do…

Climber 1 gets a 10 minute interval to climb whatever they want.  Climber 2 belays Climber 1 for the entire 10 minutes.  Climber 3 watches Cragbaby.  Then we rotate until everyone has had a chance to climb.  We are able to do this 3-4 times, depending on how early we were able to get started, since we’ve learned the hard way that the Cragbaby turns into a Crag-Monster if we stay there pat 6:45, 7 at the very latest. 

There are no hard and fast rules, since everyone is on a different level with different goals, but here are some ideas our posse has played around with during our individual sets. 

Sometimes Cragbaby likes to warm-up with the climbing team before going about his business.

ENDURO-CHALLENGE:  This one’s my favorite.  We’ve found that its fun (for climber as well as belayer) to channel our inner Hans Florine and Dean Potter and take as many laps as we can in the lead cave without stopping.  Each route usually takes around 2 – 2.5 minutes, so that gives us 4-5 routes, which can pack quite a pump, especially on steep terrain!  To eliminate tying in time, the climber never unties from the rope – instead the belayer pulls the rope from the other end while the climber moves on to the next route and starts, only pausing at the 1st bolt to make sure the belayer has them back on belay.    A fall means lower and either start over or move on to another route, as jugging back up eats up too much time.  The goal is to choose routes that you know well and are moderately strenuous but not at your limit – you should feel a steady pump settling in before you start feeling desperate and begin to thrash around.  Also remember to climb smart – the intent is to build endurance by packing on mileage at a normal climbing rate, not sacrifice form for speed.

TECHNICAL SHOWDOWN:  On vertical, technical routes I can climb closer to my limit for longer periods of time, so the grades  during a technical set are often higher than in a lead cave set.  Just like with the endurance set, 4-5 routes is the norm.  I often find that during a technical set I don’t “feel” pumped, but by the end of the set I can tell I’m wiped when my form starts getting sloppy and my footwork gets far less precise.  The goal in a technical set is to stay on the wall as much as possible, so I usually try to downclimb, even if it means going down a neighboring (easier) route than the one Icame up.

I LIKE THE WAY YOU WORK IT:  Sometimes I go in to the gym with every interval set planned out, only to discover that half the wall has been stripped for setters to put up new lines.  Or sometimes we walk in to find a smorgasbord of new plastic to pull on.  On those days it’s nice to dedicate one of your intervals to projecting a single route that’s approaching your limit.  Get it wired and then next time you can throw it into the rotation for one of your other intervals. 

Who's ready to climb?!?

Gym intervals are also a great way to simulate outdoor projects. Your project may have one definitive, stopper crux; or the crux might be just hanging on long enough to link up all the moves.  Often times an outdoor route will have varied movement and style throughout the climb.  Think through the moves one by one, and plan your interval accordingly.  For example, does your project start out on a crimpy, technical face and finish with a bang out a steep roof?  Start out with a couple of hard, vertical routes, then move quickly into the lead cave and see if you’ve still got enough gas to clip the chains at the top. 

The idea of interval training is certainly nothing new, but we’ve found that it can be especially helpful and efficient when there’s a cragbaby involved, since it emphasizes quality over quantity, and easily accounts for cragbaby duty.  By the end of the night we’ve all gotten in 30-40 minutes of intense climbing.  It might not sound like much, but if you’ve planned your intervals right, that’s more than enough!  The first time we did it we were all worthless by the time our 4th rotation rolled around.  The only downside I can see is that the concept falls apart when the gym is crowded…realizing mid-set that someone is already on the route you wanted to do next can cause a kink in the plans and give you a detrimental rest time while you try to find a back-up.  So it’s probably not the best option for a Saturday morning session (but hey, that’s when you should be climbing outside anyway 😉 )  Another possible downside is that it requires an extra person – but if you are roping up at the gym with a toddler, then odds are good that you probably already have that in place.

 So there you have it.  A quick and dirty way to manage your cragbaby and your workout!  I would love to hear the game plans of other crag families, so please, feel free to share!  Oh, and sorry for the lack of climbing photos…  I figured that any relevant pics would simply look like me and my friends climbing at the gym, which you’ve either seen already, or can imagine easy enough.  For a hot minute I thought about leaving a camera up on a tripod in the lead cave during an endurance set, then speeding up the footage, but I never got around to it, so I opted for the “here are cute things that Cragbaby does while we climb” theme…

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A Weekend of Projects – Part 2 (Pilot Mountain)

I mentioned in my last post that I’d be separating the weekend out into two posts, since each day was so different from the other.  I thought it would be fun to change things up a bit, so rather than the typical play-by-play trip report, I thought I’d focus on “projects.”  For those non-climbers out there, the term “projecting” is used to describe the process that one goes through to successfully redpoint a route near or at their limit.  A route is considered “sent” (aka redpointed) when the climber is able to lead the route from bottom to top (bringing the rope up with them and clipping into various protection points along the way) with no falls and no hangs on the rope.  Some projects go quickly – after only 2 or 3 attempts – others take a ridiculous number of tries over multiple days, months, or even years to be able to link all the moves together on lead. 

The end goal is to get here sans mistakes...

There are many different strategies climbers use to project a route, often depending on the nature of the climb and the climber’s personal preferences.  Sometimes climbers choose to  work out all the moves and clipping stances on toprope first, before ever attempting to lead the climb.  This is especially helpful if there are significant sections of the climb without protection (known as a runout), or otherwise dangerous fall potential.  Sometimes it’s not always possible to set up a toprope on a climb, or the climber prefers to work the route on lead from the start, usually stopping and hanging on the rope many times along the way to figure out all the moves.  It just so happened that four members of our crew had a particular project they were working on at Pilot, and conveniently they were all located right alongside each other, which enabled everyone to get in plenty of good burns.  Our projects were all at varying difficulty levels, and our individual approaches to each climb varied somewhat, but the cool thing was the comraderie and community psyche that was building throughout the day.  Regardless of strategy or difficulty level, we were all working through the same physical as well as mental battles.  I think our day of projecting together was a prime example of how climbing can be both a social sport as well as an individual one.  While our friends were climbing we cheered and supported, but as each of our turns to climb came up, we turned our attention inward and focused on our individual task at hand. 

The three routes we’ve chosen could arguably be the three best routes at Pilot, and I feel like each deserves a moment of spotlight.  I also happen to think the folks I climb with are pretty darn cool, and I wanted to bring in multiple perspectives.  So here’s a profile of 3 amazing climbs, along with some commentary from 3 amazing people…and I put in my two cents as well…

OVERHANGING HANGOVER 5.11b
Steve (aka Crag-Daddy) and Aaron (mentioned in the 2011 Highlight Reel) were both working on this one, known as Oho for short.  Steve is looking for his first 5.11 send, and Aaron is hoping to tick his third 5.11. 

   

Steve workin' a nice cruxn face...

Steve:   Oho is a route that I’ve climbed several times over the years, initially as a relatively new climber that needed some toprope assistance through the crux.  The lower face is fun, technical face climbing (5.10-) to a no hands rest.  An undercling traverse and a few big moves on smeary feet comes next, followed by the business – a big reach over the roof.  Last fall I started working the route on lead, and an attempt this past December left me with a hand injury, when my foot popped and I kept myself from weighting the rope at the expense of unknowingly tweaking my wrist.  I made it through the crux clean on that attempt – and then promptly blew it in the upper 5.8 section because I was so pumped.  I’ve been training in the lead cave at Inner Peaks to get my endurance up and  felt that I was ready for another go this past weekend, although unfortunately the crux beta that I’d worked out was no longer valid since a key foot had broken off earlier this year.  My 1st attempt on Sunday was not good – I was feeling jittery, and when I went to place my foot at the crux, I had the climbing equivalent of an “air ball” and fell.  After jugging back up, I discovered that I could smear my foot where the hold used to be and still make the move.  I thought for sure my 2nd attempt would end in a send.  But once again I was thwarted by crumbly rock, as more of the foot broke off when I went to use it.  After brushing away the crappy stuff, more choss sloughed off, revealing an actual hold that appeared to be pretty solid.  I gave the route one more go at the end of the day, but was too gassed to complete the climb.  I’m so ridiculously close to sending this – looking forward to another shot on Saturday!

Aaron:  Great route for leaders getting into 5.11 (like me) because of the no hands rest and the fact that the committing moves are well protected. Its reachy but the holds are good and it forces you to reconcile with being pumped but knowing that you can hold on and finish. I think its pretty close and I’m one more day out at the crag from sending. I also like that its a little longer also compared to many of the other Pilot sport routes.  At first I was intimidated by the line, since I’m usually not very good at roofs, but as soon as I tried it I was addicted to it!  I can’t wait to get back there and send it…

Using natural rest stances wisely often times an integral part of sending a project.

BLIND PROPHET 5.12b
Freshly psyched after my mental victory over Slabster’s a few days prior,  I was in search of the next challenge, and I certainly found it.
Erica (aka Cragmama):  This line climbs as good as it looks.  The first 40 feet are a sustained and technical 5.11 dihedral, followed by a funky mantle move high above the 4th bolt with a bad swing if you fall.  Luckily there was a bomber spot for my new #3 Flex Cam, exactly where I needed it (Thanks, Trango :)) There’s a no-hands rest atop the mantle block, then a leftward traverse out a large roof on giant juggy rails.  Although there are a couple of long, strenuous pulls leading up to it, the definitive crux is cranking onto the upper face, with severe heartbreak potential as it’s right before the anchors. 

Prepping for the mantle...and psyched about my gear placement.

 

Powering out the 2nd roof, where the crux is waiting to spit me off...again and again.

This project is a step up for me for several reasons.  It’s a lot harder than anything I’ve worked on before.  My other 5.12 sends have all technically been head-points, meaning that I toproped them to death first, whereas this one I started out on lead from the beginning.  My first go I hung on a lot of bolts, as well as the Flex Cam.  I got shutdown at the crux and lowered off the last bolt.  My next go I was clean until the next to the last bolt.  I fell repeatedly at the crux again, but this time I was able to figure out some key foot beta that enabled me to get established on the face and hit the handrails…but by then I was thoroughly exhausted, and my hands literally peeled right off.  I still feel like I’m a ways off from sending, as those upper moves will be a beast to link together, but I feel good about the progress I made in just one day…I think a good goal for this weekend would be to make it to the top, hanging only at the crux.

BLACK AND BLUE VELVET 5.13a/b
Chomping at the bit to tick his first 5.13, Bennett (who you might remember from his Cragmama interview last fall), has been battling with the hardest route at Pilot Mountain off and on for the past few months.

Bennett: Black and Blue Velvet is an incredibly sustained route. Basically, it’s a tough boulder problem to a thin, slightly overhanging face, back into an even harder boulder problem just before the anchors.  The climbing is very tenuous and technical with really small feet, and the ability to make powerful moves repeatedly will be the key to success for me.  Projecting requires the synergy of mental focus, refined technical beta, and sheer physical ability.  Although doing climbs that you can send first or second try is fun, in my opinion there is nothing more rewarding than taking my climbing to a new level by projecting a route.  This route in particular has me obsessed – to the point that I have trouble concentrating at work because I catch myself daydreaming about it…I’m gonna give it one more day this weekend, and if it doesn’t go, then I’ll put it on the backburner until fall…

Many thanks to Manuela Eilert, who went beyond the call of duty, dangling from the air snapping photos of us flailing around for who knows how long. In my opinion though, the end results were worth it, as we hopefully managed to accomplish several goals with just a few shots – 1. Action photos for Trango. 2. Action photos for the guidebook. 3. New Facebook Profiles for all (the most important of course) 😉  But don’t let the smorgasbord of amazing photos fool you – while Manuela can make us look good, she can’t send the route for us…which may be why our entire crew walked away empty-handed.  But the important thing to focus on is progress, not perfection – after a day’s work, we all came away with a couple of useful nuggets to apply to the next round of attempts – which will be on Saturday, weather permitting!  Hopefully at least one of us will get the send train rolling!

 

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